no or Chiesa dei Cavalieri is full of standards
taken from the Turks, and the man who showed me the Campo Santo
said that a magnificent Grecian vase which is there had been
brought from Genoa by the Pisans before the foundation of Rome.
There are Egyptian, Etruscan, Roman, and Grecian remains, which
have been plundered, or conquered, or purchased by patriotic
Pisans to enrich their native city. The frescoes are greatly
damaged. I went to look at the celebrated house 'Alla Giornata,'
a white marble palace on the Arno; the chains still hang over the
door, and there is an inscription above them which looks modern.
My _laquais de place_ told me what I suppose is the tradition of
the place--that the son of the family was taken by the Turks, and
that they had captured a Turk, who was put in chains; that an
exchange was agreed upon, and the prisoners on either side
released, and that the chains were hung up and the inscription
added, signifying that the Turk was at liberty to go again into
the light of day. But it was a lame and improbable story, and I
prefer the mystery to the explanation.

[9] There was another leaning edifice, but the Grand Duke
had it pulled down; it was thought dangerous.

[10] It had been destroyed, but was restored by the Medici
or the present family.

Much as I was charmed with the mountains, I was not sorry, for a
change, to get into the rich, broad plain of Tuscany, full of
vineyards and habitations along the banks of the Arno. The voice
and aspect of cheerfulness is refreshing after a course of rugged
and barren grandeur; the road is excellent and the travelling
rapid. Yesterday being a holiday, and to-day Sunday, the whole
population in their best dresses have been out on the road, and
very good-looking they generally are. There are not more beggars
than in France, and certainly a far greater appearance of
prosperity throughout the north of Italy than in any part of
France I have seen, although there are the same complaints of
distress and poverty here that are heard both there and in
England. Thorwaldsen, the sculptor, is in this inn, and the King
of Bavaria left it this morning. The book of strangers is rather
amusing; the entries are sometimes remarkable or ridiculous. I
found 'La Duchesse de Saint-Leu et le Prince Louis-Napoleon; Lord
and Lady Shrewsbury and family; Miss Caroline Grinwell, of New
York; the King of Bavaria (not down in the book though);
Thorw