es were
very picturesque. These processions entered St. Peter's, walked
all round the church, knelt at the altars, and retired in the
same order, filing along the piazza till they were lost behind
the arches of the colonnades. As the shades of night fell upon
the vast expanse of this wonderful building it became really
sublime; 'the dim religious light' glimmering from a distant
altar, or cast by the passing torches of the procession, the
voices of the choir as they sang the Miserere swelling from the
chapel, which was veiled in dusk, and with no light but that of
the high taper half hid behind the altar, with the crowds of
figures assembled round the chapel moving about in the obscurity
of the aisles and columns, produced the most striking effect I
ever beheld. It was curious, interesting, and inspiring--little
of mummery and much of solemnity. The night here brings out fresh
beauties, but of the most majestic character. There is a colour
in an Italian twilight that I have never seen in England, so
soft, and beautiful, and grey, and the moon rises 'not as in
northern climes obscurely bright,' but with far-spreading rays
around her. The figures, costume, and attitudes that you see in
the churches are wonderfully picturesque. I went afterwards to
the Jesu, where there was a tiresome service (the Tre Ore), and
heard a Jesuit preaching with much passion and emphasis, but
could not understand a word he said. So then I called on Cheney
and saw his mother's illustrations of Milton, which are
admirable, full of genius.

_At night._--To St. Peter's, where the Miserere was not so good
as last night. It was reported that the Pope was coming to St.
Peter's, and the Swiss Guards lined the nave, but he did not
arrive. Formerly, when the Cross was illuminated, he used to come
with all the cardinals to adore it. Now the cardinals (or rather
some of them) came and adored the Cross and the relics belonging
to the church, which were exhibited in succession from one of the
balconies--a bit of the true Cross, Santa Veronica's bloody
handkerchief, and others. There were, as the night before,
several fraternities of penitents, some in black, others in white
or brown, all disguised by long hoods, but there was to-night one
of the most striking and remarkable exhibitions I ever beheld.

The Grand Penitentiary, Cardinal Gregorio, again took his seat in
the chair of the Great Confessional. All those who have been
absolved after confession b