did not see the pictures, some of which are very good,
particularly a Judith by Guido, and a Dido by Guercino, which is
damaged, but beautiful. Then to Santa Maria Maggiore and St. John
Lateran, and a ride over the Campagna to the Claudian aqueduct
and Torlonia's _scavo_.

May 20th, 1830 {p.370}

I breakfasted with Mills at his villa on the Palatine; Madame de
Menon, Henry Cheney, Fox, and the Portuguese Charge d'Affaires;
very agreeable: his villa charming; it formerly belonged to
Julius II., and one room is painted in fresco by Raphael and his
scholars, as they say.

The Portuguese is Donna Maria's officer. The relations of the
Holy See with Portugal are rather anomalous, but sensible.
The Pope says he has nothing to do with politics, does not
acknowledge Don Miguel, but as he is _de facto_ ruler of
Portugal, he must for the good of the Church (whose interests are
not to be abandoned for any temporal considerations) transact
business with him, and so he does. This Envoy is very sanguine as
to the ultimate success of the Queen's cause.

Went to the Orti Farnesiani and to Livia's Baths, where there is
still some painting and gilding to be seen. Then to the Capitol;
saw the pictures and statues (again), and called on Bunsen, who
told me a colossal head of Commodus could not be Commodus (which
stands in the court of the Capitol); he won't allow anything is
anything. He is full of politics, and thinks the French will get
rid of their domestic difficulties by colonising Africa, and does
not see why they should not as well as the Romans; but he seems a
better antiquary than politician.

Some pictures in the Capitol are very fine--Domenichino's Sybil
and Santa Barbara, Guercino's Santa Petronella (copied in mosaic
in St. Peter's) and Cleopatra and Antony. There are several
unfinished Guidos, some only just begun. They say he played, and
when he lost and could not pay, painted a picture; so these are
the produce of bad nights, and their progress perhaps arrested by
better.

To the Borghese Villa. At present I think Chiswick better than
any villa here, but they tell me when I get home and see Chiswick
and remember these I shall think differently.

[Page Head: MALARIA]

May 22nd, 1830

Found it absolutely necessary to adopt Roman customs and dine
early and go out after dinner; one must dine at four or at nine.
Went to Raphael's house, which is painted by his scholars, and
one room by himself; a very pretty vi