d is under the stone on which it was cut off in the Piazza
di San Marco. He was beheaded by one of those pieces of iniquity
and treachery which the Venetian Government never scrupled to use
when it suited them. Then to the Scuola di San Rocco, containing
a splendid apartment and staircase, all richly gilded, painted by
Tintoret, and with bronze doors. To the Church of Santa Maria
della Salute, containing a very rich altar-piece of precious
stones, which is locked up, and produced on great occasions; and
in the sacristy three fine pictures by Titian. To the Church of
St. Mark and the Doge's Palace--all very interesting, antique,
and splendid. But the Austrians have modernised some of the
rooms, and consequently spoilt them. They have also blocked up
the Bridge of Sighs, and the reason (they told me) is that all
the foreigners who come here are so curious to walk over it,
which seems an odd one for shutting it up. The halls of audience
and of the different councils are magnificently gilded, and
contain some very fine pictures.
The Hall of the Council of Ten (the most powerful and the
most abominable tribunal that ever existed) has been partly
modernised. In the Chamber of the Inquisitors of State is still
the hole in the wall which was called the 'Lion's Mouth,' through
which written communications were made; and the box into which
they fell, which the Inquisitors alone could open. There were
'Bocche di Lioni' in several places at the head of the Giant's
Staircase, and in others. The mouths are gone, but the holes
remain. Though the interior of the Ponte di Sospiri is no longer
visible, the prisons are horrible places, twenty-four in number,
besides three others under water which the French had closed up.
They are about fourteen feet long, seven wide, and seven high,
with one hole to admit air, a wooden bed, which was covered
with straw, and a shelf. In one of the prisons are several
inscriptions, scrawled on the wall and ceiling.
Di chi mi fido, mi guardi Iddio,
Di chi non mi fido, mi guardo io.
Un parlar pocho, un negar pronto,
Un pensar in fine puo dar la vita
A noi altri meschini.
Non fida d'alcuno, pensi e tacci
Se fuggir vuoi di spioni, insidie e lacci.
Il pentirti, il pentirti, nulla giova
Ma ben del valor tuo far vera prova.
There are two places in which criminals, or prisoners, were
secretly
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