e act of
adoration of the Host, which is raised before him, but as he
cannot kneel for such a length of time, he sits covered with
drapery, and with a pair of false legs stuck out behind to give
his figure the appearance of kneeling. Before him are borne the
triple crown and other Pontifical ornaments. The Guardia Nobile,
commanded by Prince Barberini, looked very handsome, and all the
troops _en tres-belle tenue_. All the Ambassadors and foreigners
were in this palace, and from it we flocked to St. Peter's, which
is always a curious sight on these occasions from the multitudes
in it and the variety of their appearance and occupation--
cardinals, princes, princesses, mixed up with footmen, pilgrims,
and peasants. Here, Mass going on at an altar, and crowds
kneeling round it; there, the Host deposited amidst a peal of
music at another; in several corners, cardinals dressing or
undressing, for they all take off the costume they wore in the
procession and resume their scarlet robes in the church; men
hurrying about with feathers, banners, and other paraphernalia of
the day, the peasantry in their holiday attire, and crowds of
curious idlers staring about. All this is wonderfully amusing,
and is a scene which presents itself in continual variety. Went
afterwards and took leave of all my friends--La Ferronays,
Dalbergs, Bunsens, Lovaines, &c.--and at seven, to my great
sorrow, left Rome. But as I do all that superstition dictates, I
drank in the morning a glass of water at the Fountain of Trevi,
for they say that nobody ever drinks of the Fountain of Trevi
without returning to Rome.
The road about Narni and Augustus's Bridge is beautifully
picturesque. I set off directly to the cascade, with which I was
as much delighted as I was disappointed with that of Tivoli. It
is difficult to conceive anything more magnificent than the whole
of this scenery.
[Page Head: FALLS OF TERNI]
Florence, June 10th, 1830 {p.400}
The horses were announced, and I was obliged to break off my
account of Terni and resume it here, where I arrived after a
tedious journey of forty hours, from Rome.
Most people are dragged up the mountain by _bovi_, see the upper
part of the fall, and walk down. But as the _bovi_ were not at
hand, I reversed the usual order, walked to the bottom, and then
toiled to the top. The walk, which is lovely, lies through the
grounds of a count, who has a house close to the Nera (the Nera
(Nar) is the river into
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