do, called 'Stupendous' from his
frequent use of that adjective in pointing out the views. His
real name is Barbarossa, which is nearly as fine. We went to see
the sun set from the Villa d'Este a very fine villa, with clipped
trees, waterworks, and all the usual beauties of Italian villas.
It belongs to the Duke of Modena, is uninhabited, and falling to
decay for want of care and attention. Thence to the Temple of the
Sybil or Vesta [6] (for it goes by both names), which is very
airy and graceful, and perched on the point of a rock, but its
effect spoiled by being embedded in dirty, ugly houses. The fall
below was made by Bernini, and is very pretty, but not grand, and
it looks rather artificial. We saw it from what is called the
Grotto of Neptune. At night I returned again, but nobody else
would stir out. I went down to the fall, and had bundles of hay
lit on the rock above, and some blue lights called _lumi di
Bengala_, a sort of firework, put in the temple, and the effect
was beautiful. The reflected light upon the cascade, and the
light and shade upon the rocks, and the temple made visible
through the darkness by the soft blue flame, without any of the
background of buildings appearing, were very fine, and in the
obscurity it seemed much more extensive and natural. I saw this
first from the Grotto of Neptune, and then from the opposite
height.

[6] I believe it to be the Sybil's Temple. There is a
frightful square building close to it they call the
Sybil's Temple, but I do not see by what authority.
Nibby says it is Vesta, but everybody else says the
Sybil.-- FORSYTH, CRAMER, &c.

[Page Head: TIVOLI]

Yesterday morning we were to have started on the _giro_ of Tivoli
at six, but as women are never ready, and a good deal of eating
and drinking was to be gone through before we got under weigh, we
were not off till near eight. The consequence was that we got
into the heat, and lost the colouring of the early morning, and
those lights and shades on which great part of the beauty of this
scenery depends. I was altogether disappointed; the hills are
either quite bare or covered with olives, the most tiresome of
trees; the falls are all artificial, and though the view at the
foot of the largest (or as near as you can approach it) is
beautiful, on the whole no part of the scenery answered my
expectations. The water falls in eleven separate cascades (above
and below), and s