Baiae and the
islands; and then to the Solfaterra. The ruins scattered about
Naples (those at Pozzuoli, for instance) are far more extensive
than most of those at Rome, but partly 'carent quia vate sacro,'
and partly because there are no well-known names attached to
them, the ground is not so holy, and little is said or thought
about them. If these temples were at Rome, what an uproar they
would cause! The Solfaterra is remarkable as a sort of link
between the quick and the dead volcanoes; it is considered
extinct, but the earth is hot, the sulphur strong, and at a
particular spot, when a hole is made, it hisses and throws up
little stones and ashes, and exhibits a sort of volcano in
miniature, but the surface of the crater is overgrown with
vegetation. The road to Naples by the convent of the Jesuits and
Chapel of St. Januarius is the most beautiful I ever saw,
particularly towards sunset, when the colouring is so rich and
varied. It lies over a crest commanding a prospect of the
mountains on one side and the sea on the other.

Quid mille revolvam
Culmina visendique vices.

May 3rd, 1830 {p.349}

We sailed across the Bay to Resina, to see Herculaneum, the old
and new excavations. At the new there are only seven or eight men
at work; the old are hardly worth seeing. So much earth and
cinders are mixed with the lava in the new part, that they might
excavate largely if they would spend money enough; at present
they have only excavated one or two houses, but have found some
bronzes and marbles. The houses are laid open, just like those at
Pompeii.

[Page Head: ASCENT OF VESUVIUS]

The next day Morier, Watson, and I set off to ascend Vesuvius; we
rode on donkeys from Salvatore's house to the bottom of the last
ascent, which was rather less formidable than I expected, though
fatiguing enough. Another party went up at the same time: one man
of that party, Watson, and I walked up alone; the others were all
lugged up. They take the bridles off the donkeys and put them on
the men; the luggee holds by this tackle and the guide goes
before him. After infinite puffing and perspiring, and resting at
every big stone, I reached the top in thirty-five minutes. It was
very provoking to see the facility with which the creatures who
attended us sprang up. There was one fellow with nothing on but a
shirt and half a pair of breeches, who walked the whole way from
Resina with a b