r, nor feast my eyes on the scene of
gaiety, and brilliancy, and beauty around me. Nobody can form an
idea of Naples without coming to it; every gale seems to bring
health and cheerfulness with it, and appears 'able to drive all
sadness but despair.'

Naples, they tell me, does very well for a short time, but you
will soon grow tired of it. To be sure, I have been here only
three weeks, but I liked it better every day, and I am wretched
at leaving it. What could I ever mean by thinking it was not gay,
and less lively than Genoa? To-night, as I came home from riding,
the shore was covered with lazaroni and throngs of people,
dancing, singing, harping, fiddling--all so merry, and as if the
open air and their own elastic spirits were happiness enough. I
suppose I shall never come again, for when I have measured back
the distance to my own foggy country, there I shall settle for
ever, and Naples and her sunny shores and balmy winds will only
be as a short and delightful dream, from which I have waked too
soon.

CHAPTER X.

Mola di Gaeta--Capua--Lines on leaving Naples--Return to Rome--
The Aqueducts--'Domine, quo vadis?'--St. Peter's--The Scala
Santa--Reasons in favour of San Gennaro--Ascent of St.
Peter's--Library of the Vatican--A racing _ex voto_--Illness of
George IV.--Approaching _Coup d'etat_ in France--The Villa
Mills--The Malaria--Duc and Duchesse de Dalberg--The Emperor
Nicholas on his Accession--Cardinal Albani--A _Columbarium_--
Maii--Sir William Gell--Tivoli--Hadrian's Villa--The Adventures
of Miss Kelly and Mr. Swift--Audience of the Pope--Gibson's
Studio--End of Miss Kelly's Marriage--A great Function--The
Jesuits--Saint-making--San Lorenzo in Lucina--The Flagellants--
Statues by Torchlight--Bunsen on the State of Rome--Fiascati--
Relations of Protestant States with Rome--The French Ministry--
M. de Villele--The Coliseum--Excommunication of a Thief--The
Passionists--The Corpus Domini--A Rash Marriage--Farewell to
Rome--Falls of Terni--Statue at Pratolino--Bologna--
Mezzofanti--Ferrara--Venice--Padua--Vicenza--Brescia--Verona--
Milan--Lago Maggiore--The Simplon--Geneva--Paris.

Mola di Gaeta, May 9th, 1830 {p.359}

I have dined here on an open terrace (looking over the garden and
the delicious Bay), where I have been sitting writing the whole
evening. The moon is just rising, and throwing a flood of silver
over the sea--