ereabouts. They were, however, his first and his
last while I was at Naples.

Naples, April 18th, 1830 {p.333}

I am disappointed with Naples. I looked for more life and gaiety,
a more delicious air, beautiful town, and picturesque lazaroni,
more of Punch, more smoke and flame from Vesuvius. It strikes me
as less beautiful than Genoa, but these are only first impressions.
The Bay and the Villa Reale, a garden along the sea, full of
sweets and sea breezes and shade, are certainly delightful. All
the people seem anxious to cheat as much as they can, from the
master of the inn to the driver of the hackney-coach. At present
I don't feel disposed to stay here, and when I have seen Paestum,
Pompeii, and the environs I shall be glad to get back to Rome.
Sir Henry Lushington said at dinner yesterday he had seen at
Naples a 'Courier' newspaper of that day week, produced by
Rothschild and brought by one of his couriers. I came very fast,
but was 236 hours on the road, including 20 hours' stoppage.
This is 168 hours, which appears incredible, but 'gold imp'd by
Jews can compass hardest things.'

April 19th, 1830 {p.334}

I retract all I said about disappointment, for I have since seen
Naples, and it is the most beautiful and the gayest town in the
world. Yesterday morning with Morier I walked up to the Castle of
St. Elmo and the Certosa; went over the chapel, which is full of
costly marbles, and fine pictures both in oil and fresco,
particularly one by Spagnolet as fine as any at Rome or anywhere.
Tasted the _custode's_ lachryma Christi, which, if it be as good
of the sort as he pretends, is middling stuff, but not bad with
water. Saw all the views, which are magnificent. Walked down to
the Villa Reale, which was crowded with people, and the
Chiaja with carriages. Dined with Hill--half English and half
foreigners--and went to the Opera; a very indifferent opera of
Rossini, ill sung, called the 'Siege of Corinth.'

This morning at half-past eight we went to the Court of Justice
to hear an extraordinary trial which excites great interest here.
The proceedings of the day happened to be very uninteresting, not
that it made much difference, for I could not understand a word
anybody said, but I had an opportunity of seeing the manner in
which they conduct trials in this country, and the behaviour of
the judges, the counsel, and the prisoners. Nothing can be less
analogous than the proceedings here to those which prevail in o