f white marble from
the Pentelic quarries, and highly ornamented by
Phidias.

Naples, April 26th, 1830 {p.345}

To the Museum; met the Dalbergs and Prince and Princess
Aldobrandini, a good-looking daughter and two sons. They will
have all Prince Borghese's estate. I only went into the Pompeii
and Herculaneum part of the collections.

The lazaroni are very amusing. This morning four of them stripped
stark naked under my window, put off in a boat, and thirty yards
from the shore fished for cockle fish, which they do by diving
like ducks, throwing their feet up in the air as the ducks do
their tails. The creatures are perfectly amphibious; they don't
care who sees them, and their forms are perfect. Then there are
little lazaroni who ape the big ones. Met a christening this
morning, and then a funeral. The wet nurse, full dressed, was
carried in a sedan chair down the middle of the street, and the
child, dressed also, held out of the window in her arms, and so
she was going to church. The funeral was a priest's--a long file
of penitents in white, carrying torches, a bier covered with
crimson and gold, and the priest dressed in robes and exposed
upon it, a ghastly sight, with a chalice in his hand and a book
at his feet, other priests following, the cross borne before him.
When young girls are buried in this way, they are gaily dressed
with chaplets of flowers, a flower in the mouth, and flowers at
their feet.

Rode to the race-course and round the hills; such views and such
an evening! At seven o'clock I could see the houses at Sorrento,
nineteen miles off on the other side of the Bay. Dined with
Acton; none but English. In the evening went to Toledo, the
Spanish Ambassador's. The Duc de Dalberg talked of an association
to excavate at Calabria and Apulia. The Government reserves four
places--Pompeii, Paestum, Stabiae, Herculaneum--for its own use,
and anybody may excavate elsewhere who will be at the trouble and
expense.

[Page Head: ANTIQUE PAINTING]

April 29th, 1830 {p.346}

On Tuesday again to the Museum and the King's Palace; rather
fine, good house, very ridiculous pictures of the royal families
of Naples and Spain. The Duchess of Floridia's apartment (old
Ferdinand's wife) is delightful; the rooms are furnished with
blue satin and white silk, opening upon a terrace covered with
orange-trees, flowers, and shaded walks, and looks over the Bay.
A few fine pictures, but not many. Ther