ked upon, which can induce a man to come forward
in the face of multitudes and exhibit himself as the perpetrator
of some atrocious though unknown crime.

[Page Head: PILGRIMS AT SUPPER]

At night I went to the Trinita dei Pellegrini to see the pilgrims
at supper. The washing of the feet was over; a cardinal performs
it with the men, and ladies with the women, but it is no mere
ceremony as at the Vatican; they really do wash and scrub the
dirty feet perhaps of about a dozen of them each night. I saw the
room in which they were just clearing away the apparatus and
collecting piles of dirty towels. The pilgrims sit on benches;
under their feet are a number of small wooden tubs, with cocks to
turn the water into them, and there they are washed. Afterwards
they go to supper, and then to bed. The men sup in a very long
hall--most curious figures, and natives of half the world. The
Cardinal Camerlengo[17] says grace and cuts the meat. They are
waited upon by gentlemen and priests, and have a very substantial
meal. The women are treated in the same way.[18] No men are
admitted to their hall, but we contrived to get to the door and
saw it all. The Princess Orsini and a number of Roman ladies were
there (who had been washing feet) with aprons on, waiting upon
them at supper. Their dormitories were spacious, clean, and
sweet, though the beds were crowded together. The pilgrims are
kept there from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, when they are
dismissed. Their numbers are generally about 250 or 300. The
funds of the establishment are supplied by private subscriptions,
legacies, and donations, the names of the benefactors, with the
amount of their contributions, being recorded on boards hung up
in the hall. There were a great many spectators, but the whole
ceremony was ordered with regularity and decency, which is more
than can be said for those of the Vatican. I walked to-night to
St. Peter's, to look at it by moonlight. From every point of view
it is magnificent; the stillness of the night is broken only by
the waters of the fountains, which glitter in the moonbeams like
sheets of molten silver. The obelisk, the facade, the cupola, and
the columns all contribute to the grandeur and harmony of the
scene: but everything at Rome should be seen at night. The Castle
of St. Angelo, the Tiber, and the Bridge are all wonderfully fine
in these bright nights.

[17] Minister of the Interior and Chamberlain; but Gonsalvi
de