stand how they ever
came to converse with each other at all. I remember one of the
best of his stories. Sixtus V. made his sister a princess, and
she had been a washerwoman. The next day Pasquin appeared with a
dirty shirt on. Marphorius asks him 'why he wears such foul
linen;' and he answers 'that his washerwoman has been made a
princess, and he can't get it washed.'

To the Farnesina: Raphael's frescoes, the famous Galatea, and the
great head which Michael Angelo painted on the wall, as it is
said as a hint to Raphael that he was too minute. There it is
just as he left it. Here Raphael painted the Transfiguration, and
here the Fornarina was shut up with him that he might not run
away from his work. It might be thought that to shut up his
mistress with him was not the way to keep him to his work. Be
that as it may, the plan was a good one which produced these
frescoes and the Transfiguration.

[Page Head: POMPEY'S STATUE]

I very nearly forgot to mention the Palazzo Spada, where we went
to see the famous statue of Pompey, which was found on the spot
where the Senate House formerly stood, and which is (as certainly
as these things can be certain) the identical statue at the foot
of which Caesar fell.

Muffling his face within his robe
Ev'n at the base of Pompey's statue,
Which all the while ran blood, great Caesar fell.

People doubt this statue, because it is not like his busts. There
is certainly no resemblance to the bust I have seen, which
represents Pompey as a fat, vulgar-looking man with a great
double chin. It is impossible for the coldest imagination to look
at this statue without interest, for it calls up a host of
recollections and associations, standing before you unchanged
from the hour when Caesar folded his robe round him and
'consented to death' at its base. Those who cannot feel this had
better not come to Rome. Cardinal Spada was Secretary of State
when this statue was found, and Julius III. (Giocchi del Monti,
1550) made him a present of it.

The Temple of Bacchus is one of the most remarkable objects in
Rome; it is not in the least altered, merely turned into a
Christian church, and some saints, &c., painted on the walls. The
mosaic ceiling and the pavement are just the same as when it was
devoted to the worship of the jolly god. The mosaics are
beautiful, and perfect models of that sort of ceiling. The
pavement is covered with names and other scribblings cut