dary of China, nor yet of my desire, but my time was nearly
spent; in less than four months I had to be back in England; moreover,
late summer was not a favourable season for descending the Yangtse. So
with a longing glance up the great Lhasa trail I turned my face
eastwards; but it is always wearisome to retrace one's steps, and a
chance remark of Captain Bailey set me on the scent of an alternative
route to Ya-chou. As far as Lu Ting Ch'iao there was no choice; all
traffic across the Ta Tu must seek the great iron bridge both coming and
going, but at that point there turned off to the north and east a
shorter trail than the main packroad which we had struck near Ni T'ou.
Although more direct, it was less travelled owing to the difficulties of
the way, for there were two steep mountain-ranges to be crossed, and
path and bridges were often insecure, calling for a sure foot and a
steady head. It was not easy to get precise information as to the
condition of the road. Captain Bailey knew little save the mere fact of
its existence, and although Major Davies had taken this route, he notes
in his book "Yuennan" nothing more than that it is much too steep for
animals. Even the friendly postmaster failed us here; all he could tell
was that an official who had attempted to take ponies through lost them
all, swept away by the torrents. The interpreter wagged his head
doubtfully when I suggested my plan, but his opinion did not matter,
for, like all of his class in China, he was disinclined to active
exertion. And when I called the fu t'ou into council I found he had once
gone this way, and was not inclined to go again.

_Ku Niang_ (my title): "I wish to go to Ya-chou by the Lesser Trail."

_Fu t'ou_: "It is impossible."

_Ku Niang_: "I intend to go all the same, and I expect you to go with
me."

_Fu t'ou_: "Very well. I will guide the Ku Niang by the Lesser Trail,
but the pony cannot go, nor the chairs, nor the men, for it is
impassable for shoulder loads, and these are Ning-yuean men who know no
other way of carrying."

Apparently the fu t'ou and the cook, Jack and I were the only ones equal
to the trip, as I had already told the interpreter he might go by the
main road. But persistence conquers most things in the East. The pony
should be sent round by the longer way in charge of the ma-fu. As for
the interpreter, when he found I was ready to get along without him, he
decided to stay with me. I would not have the Ning-yuea