visited one that had been converted into a miniature temple, and there
are several in one of the mission compounds. I believe they are known
only in this region. They have been excavated by an expert hand, showing
traces, it is thought, of Indian influence. Much conjecture has been
expended upon them, and as yet there is no advance upon Baber's
conclusion "that these excavations are of unknown date, and have been
undertaken for unexplained purposes, by a people of doubtful identity."

As the river was now high, the current carried us along at a good speed,
but I was in no hurry and we made many stops, when I got out to stretch
my legs along the bank. At night we always tied up, and it took some
effort to secure a place to the liking of us all. I wanted air and
quiet, but the desire of my boat people was set on a chance to go
a-marketing or to do a little visiting. Sometimes I got what I wished,
sometimes they did, but they did their best, I think, to gratify my
strange whims.

One night when they had their way and we were tied up to a shingle
alongside some forty or fifty junks and small craft, we had all to turn
out on a grand hunt for the "tailless one" who had gone astray. As soon
as the plank was down, I went ashore followed by the dogs. As it grew
dark I sat down on a rock not far away, and Jack curled up by me, but
the other one went back to the boat. Presently I saw the men come ashore
and walk up and down swinging their paper lanterns and sending out long,
loud cries. The little dog was missing, and they were afraid he was
being kept concealed on one of the other boats, for, so they said,
people liked to steal little dogs. I asked if they thought it would help
if I went with them along the beach and they called out that I was
looking for the dog. They were sure it would, so we paraded up and down
the long line of junks, flashing out our lanterns while the men called,
not to the junk people, for "face" must be saved, but to the little dog
himself, "O tailless one, come home, O tailless one, come home, the
foreign devil is seeking thee." And presently there was a joyful shout
from our boat. The "tailless one" had come walking up the gangplank,
quietly returned under cover of darkness. The men were immensely
pleased, and said it was all due to me; the people were afraid to steal
from a foreigner.

Three days after leaving Chia-ting, we came in sight of Suifu, most
picturesquely set on a rocky slope at the junctio