opening
one into the other. In each there was the invariable platform covered by
rugs, and big Chinese vases stood about on small tables.

The life that went on in the courtyard was simple and rather
patriarchal. Servants, children, horses, everything was under the eye of
the master, a good-looking, dignified man. I found it rather difficult
to distinguish servants and family; everybody seemed to be on a familiar
footing. But the joy of the place was a small boy, the son and heir, who
played with Jack or sat in my room inspecting my things by the
half-hour. According to Western ideas children in the East are not
"brought up," and it is true they are abominably spoiled, but at least
one's heart is not often wrung by seeing them slapped and beaten.

One of my first rides abroad was to the Russo-Asiatic Bank where I met
much courtesy and helpfulness. Thanks to the bank officials in Peking I
was expected, and I found a warm welcome, and a house ready prepared for
me, which, however, I could not use, as I was already settled where I
was. There is a community of about five hundred Russians in Urga, mostly
traders and officials, and a fifth as many soldiers protecting them. The
look of the Russian quarter takes you across the sea, for many of the
houses are of logs set in a grass yard, the whole surrounded by a high
board fence, almost a stockade in strength. Far East and Far West have
met, and the homes of the Russian pioneer and American frontiersman are
much alike.

For many decades Russia has been extending her influence into North
Mongolia, patiently and persistently, and now through trade and
employment she has the country in her grasp. Almost the only foreign
people the Mongol knows are the Russians, and as a rule he seems to get
on with them rather well, although a Russian official told me he doubted
if there was much to choose between the Chinese and the Russian traders;
both fleeced the poor nomad. However, European onlookers, who know
Mongolia well, declare that if it came to war between China and Russia,
the Mongols would take sides,--and with the Russians.

[Illustration: MY MONGOL HOSTESS]

[Illustration: THE MONGOL HOUSE WHERE I STAYED IN URGA]

When I was in Urga there was much talk among the Chinese about the
railway that was surely coming, and the Kalgan officials said the same
thing. One only wonders that it was not done half a dozen years ago;
there are no serious difficulties. Once outside the Great