n, the holy of holies, 180;
ascent of, 187 _ff._;
myths and legends concerning, 188, 189;
monasteries on, 190, 193, 194;
memories of a three days' stay on the summit of, 194-199;
wherein its charm consists, 198, 199, 280.

Opium habit, among coolies, 107, 108;
rare in Mongolia, 255.

Opium trade, in Yunnan, 25, 26;
Manchu government adverse to, 26.

Pai-chang, hiring a pony at, 163-165.

Pai-la shu (white-wax tree), 73.

Pailou (memorial arch), 104, 105.

Palm-leaf hats, 19, 20.

Pao-an-ying, 95.

Paper, substitute for glass in West China, 40.

Passports, lack of, 11;
not required within Chinese Empire, 212;
for Mongolia, 237.

Pechihli, Gulf of, 228.

Peking, arrival at, 228;
situation of, 228, 229;
the Tartar Wall, 229 _ff._;
the divers cities of, 230;
viewed from the Wall, 231, 232;
the American Legation, 232;
the streets, 232;
to the average European its history begins in 1900, 233;
preparing for Mongolian journey at, 237 _ff._;
24, 163, 176, 222, 223, 280.

Peking cart, an instrument of torture, 243, 244.

Peking railway, the. See Lu-Han R.R.

People's Assembly, the, 230.

Photographing, in Szechuan, 156.

Pien-ma boundary question, 29, 30.

Pilgrim to Lhasa, the, 112.

Pilgrims to Omei Shan, 185, 187, 189, 193, 195.

P'ing-i-p'u, 98, 99.

Polo, Marco, 74, 81, 124, 171, 172, 230, 244, 248, 250.

Pongkiong, 260.

Ponies, Yunnanese, 34, 35.

Poppies, not now cultivated in Yunnan, 26;
banished from Chien Ch'ang, 72, 94.

"Pork money," 36, 96, 97.

Post-routes, between Kalgan and Siberian frontier, 245, 246.

Praying-Stones, 138.

Precious Stone Castle, 214.

Protestant missions in China, achievement of, 158, 159.

P'u-chi, 53.

P'u-hsien Bodhisattva, 189, 190, 191.

P'u Yi, the baby Emperor, and the new government, 231.

Purple City, the, in Peking, 230.

Queue, the, 43.

Railway, projected by Chinese Government, 15, 16.

Railways in China, history of, 225, 226;
the Kalgan-Peking line the first one built by Chinese, 234.

Rainy season, the, in No. Mongolia, 270-272.

Rats, 21.

Red lama, the, 258, 265.

Red River R.R., from Hanoi to Yunnan-fu, 14-23;
no night traffic on, 14;
accommodations on, 14;
a remarkable undertaking, 14, 15;
engineering difficulties of, 15;
rates on, excessive, 15;
4.

Reeves, Captain, 237.

Reform move