of Bombay, and it boasts the largest ironworks
in China. Wuchang is the provincial capital, and the seat of the viceroy
or governor, as it happens, and its mint and arsenal are the most
important in the south, while Hankow is the trading centre, and the
headquarters of the great banking and shipping concerns.

When I was there in early July of last year I noticed only the look of
substantial prosperity about the place, and the comfortable bustle and
stir in the streets. Chinese and Europeans alike seemed intent on making
money, pound-wise or cash-wise. The one matter of concern was the high
water in the river, here nearly a mile wide. Already it was almost up to
the top of the "bund"; a few inches more and it would flood the lowland,
destroying life and property, and stopping all business. There were no
outward signs of commotion underneath, but in about three months the
viceroy's yamen was in flames, shops and offices were looted, and the
mint and arsenal in the hands of the Revolutionary party. One stroke had
put it in possession of a large amount of treasure, military stores, and
a commanding position.

I planned to stay in Hankow just long enough to pack a box for England,
and efface a few of the scars of inland travel before confronting
whatever society might be found in Peking in midsummer, but rather to my
dismay I found the weekly express train left the day after my arrival.
It was out of the question to take that, and apparently I would have to
wait over a week unless I dared try the ordinary train that ran daily,
stopping two nights on the road. But there seemed many lions in the way.
It would be quite impossible to go by this train unless I could take
all my things into the carriage with me; nothing was safe in the luggage
van. It would be a long and tedious journey, and I could get nothing to
eat on the way, and of course it would be impossible to put up at
Chinese inns at night. But face the Eastern lions and they generally
turn to kittens. Travelling by way trains had no terrors for me, it
would give me a chance to see the country, and it was for that I had
come to China, and I knew I could manage about my things; but the
Chinese inn was something of a difficulty, as I was leaving interpreter
and cook in Hankow. I jumped into a rickshaw and by good luck found the
genial superintendent, M. Didier, at the station. _Mais oui_, I might
stop in the train at night; _mais oui_, the little dog could be with me;