the so-called
idolatrous character of the performance.

The town of Omei where we spent the night seems to exist chiefly for the
sake of the thousands of pilgrims who make a last halt here before they
begin the ascent of the mountain. Mindful of the many Tibetans who pass
through here in the spring, I made a raid upon the shops, but in vain;
all that I found was two good pieces of Chinese bronze. The owner and I
could not agree on a price, so I left him to think it over until I came
by again, and then he was away and his wife did not dare unlock his
cases, although I offered her what he had asked. The rain poured down,
but a crowd gathered to offer sympathy and suggestions, while my men and
I argued with her. Would she not fare worse if her husband found she had
missed a sale than if she disobeyed orders? All to no purpose, so I went
away empty-handed. That evening it rained brass pots, but alas, nothing
that I wanted.

Usually in these small places the woman seems a very active member of
the establishment, and I am told that a man often wishes to consult his
wife before making a large deal. The Chinese woman, perhaps, lacks the
charm of the Japanese or Indian, but in spite of her many handicaps she
impresses the outsider with her native good sense and forcefulness, and
I should expect that even more than the other two she would play a great
part in the development of her people when her chance came.

It was again raining when we started the next morning; indeed, it seemed
a long time since I had felt really dry, but the grey day harmonized
perfectly with the soft English beauty of the country that lies between
Omei-hsien and the foot of the mountain, wooded lanes and glens, little
brooks rippling between flowery banks, fine stone bridges spanning the
swift green Omei, red temples overhung by splendid banyan trees, and
over all the dark mysterious mountain, lifting its crown ten thousand
feet above our heads. Did ever pilgrim tread a more beautiful path to
the Delectable Mountains? And there were so many pilgrims, men and
women, all clad in their best, and with the joy of a holiday shining in
their faces. There were few children, but some quite old people, and
many were women hobbling pluckily along on their tiny feet; the
majority, however, were young men, chosen perhaps as the most able to
perform the duty for the whole family. They seemed mostly of a
comfortable farmer class; the very poor cannot afford the journey