n men discharged
if they wished to go on with me to Ya-chou and Chengtu, as first
arranged but I was sure that by hiring two or three extra coolies, so as
to lighten the loads, they could get along; nor did the chairs present
any real difficulty. We would walk when the trail was bad, and surely
they could be taken empty wherever pack-coolies went. So it proved, all
was arranged as I planned, and in the end everything turned out
satisfactorily.

Our departure from Tachienlu was attended with the usual noise and
confusion; nothing is done quietly in China. Also there were the
customary delays. As we had only a short stage before us, I sat serenely
aloof on the steps of the mission house, enjoying for the last time the
wonderful views over the town to the snow peaks above, while things
gradually got themselves straight. After a long wait for the second
soldier, who never turned up, we were at last off, and the descent of
the valley was very enjoyable in the soft grey light of a misty day. As
the river had risen appreciably during our stay in Tachienlu, it rushed
along at a fine rate between the high, steep banks, and I held my breath
as I watched people pulling themselves over by the perilous rope
bridges. Halfway to Wa Ssu Kou we met a procession of six chairs, and
from each looked out the fair, smiling face of a French sister bound to
her mission station at Tachienlu. Already in thought the town seemed
purer and better for the presence of these noble women, who had probably
left their homes for good, to take up a work which they would lay down
only with life.

We found room in Wa Ssu Kou in the same "comfy" inn as before, and the
welcome we received gave me a truly homelike feeling. Soon after
starting the next morning we passed the funeral cortege of a Chinese
official of Tachienlu, making his last long journey to his distant home
two hundred li beyond Chengtu. The ponderous coffin in its red case,
upon which stood the usual white cock to avert disaster, was preceded by
men carrying flags and cymbals which they clashed in accompaniment to
the almost continuous chanting of the eight bearers. As they stopped for
frequent halts we had soon left them far behind, but late at night they
arrived at Lu Ting and were given quarters in the same temple where we
were lodged, for I had refused to try the inns again.

While it was still dark the next morning we were aroused by the sound of
chanting and clashing cymbals in the cour