er which the Sultan would drive between the lines of soldiers. A dozen
carts filled with clean sand that had been standing near us were hurried
up the hill and the white sand was spread over the Sultan's path. The
bands ceased playing; the soldiers stood at attention; the Muezzin
called to prayer; a trumpet sounded from the gates; and from the palace
on the hill carriages emerged containing the veiled wives of the ruler
attended by black eunuchs on horseback. A long line of military officers
in handsome uniforms followed on foot; then a shout arose from the
assembled troops, and a carriage appeared drawn by a very handsome pair
of horses in gold-mounted harness. In the carriage the Sultan sat alone.
The huzzas of the troops continued until his Majesty entered the mosque.
Then all was silent, for the Sultan was at his prayers alone. His wives
and his officials had been left at the entrance. No person was permitted
to enter. The Iman, or priest in charge, and the Sultan were the only
occupants of the mosque.

Without waiting for the ruler's return the visitors hastened away, the
carriages raising such a cloud of dust that it was difficult to see
across the road. A hasty luncheon in a Pera restaurant followed, and
then we turned toward Stamboul. As we drove again across the Galata
bridge through the ever interesting throng of humanity that crowds over
it, our attention was called to the manner in which merchandise is
conveyed through the narrow streets of the city. Wagons are rarely
used, but men carry the merchandise on their backs and shoulders. These
men passed us laden with immense bales of hides, huge bundles of carpets
and rugs, large boxes of dry-goods, great crates of fruits or
vegetables, piles of trunks, barrels and sacks of groceries, and cans of
oil. The ponderous burdens were heaped upon wooden frames fitted to the
backs and strapped to the shoulders of the carriers. When the load was
too heavy for one man to carry, it was suspended on poles and carried by
two or more of the bearers.

[Illustration: "WHAT A CONTRAST," SHE SAID.]

A high wall surrounds the old Seraglio grounds. Before visitors may
enter a permit must be obtained. A permit including the necessary fees
to the keepers costs small parties of visitors about five dollars each;
the permit and fees for the Molkte party, so it was rumored, cost the
managers two hundred dollars. The captain of the guard at the gate
scrutinized our permit and kept us wa