of Judea was entered. From that point the train traveled
slowly and laboriously up the hills and mountains by steep gradients.
Overhead in the limestone cliffs were many caves, one of which was
pointed out as Samson's Grotto. Whenever there was any soil among the
rocks and stones, the grass grew luxuriantly, making good pasture for
the herds of nimble-footed black goats that picked their way along the
steep and rocky mountain side. The red rose of Sharon grew in profusion
and took possession of the uncultivated ground around the trees and
between the rocks. At many places the abundance of these poppies and the
beauty of their groupings gave to the land the appearance of a park
planned and laid out by a landscape gardener. Nearer the summit the
hills were bleak and barren. Here was the village of Bittir, a group of
little stone houses clinging to the mountain side, where terraces
supported by stone walls held up small gardens on which cauliflower and
other vegetables were growing.

[Illustration: THEY CHANTED A PRAYER TO ALLAH.]

"For the past hour," said a lady who had been intently gazing out of the
window of the car, "yes, for a longer time, I have been looking forward
expecting to see a city burst forth impressively into sight, a city upon
a mountain top, 'beautiful for situation.' Now the conductor tells us
that we are nearing our destination, and yet cliffs and hills are all
that we can see. Where is Jerusalem? 'A city set upon a hill cannot be
hid.'"

"You have not read your Bible closely," replied a minister in our
compartment. "David said, 'The mountains are round about Jerusalem,' As
it was then so we shall find it now, on hills surrounded by other hills.
Do not expect to see the city of Solomon's time which the Queen of Sheba
came to visit. Its glory departed eighteen centuries ago. I fear that
your imagination has led you to expect more than the modern Turkish town
which we shall find, and you may feel like lamenting with Jeremiah, 'Is
this the city that men call the perfection of beauty, the joy of the
whole earth?'"

It was not until we were approaching the railway station, which is
situated in the suburbs about a mile from the city, that we obtained a
view of the yellow walls and buildings of the Holy City, and the sight
then was not impressive, as we had expected. Then at the station, amid
the noisy cries of many Arab drivers, we obtained seats in carriages,
and were driven at breakneck speed over a