[Illustration: WHERE EGYPTIANS OF MANY TYPES WERE ASSEMBLED.]

The monotony of the level stretches was varied by groups of palm trees
whose tall rough trunks upheld graceful heads of outstretched, drooping
leaves, and by villages of small mud huts roofed with stalks of
sugar-cane, sufficient, we imagined, in that dry country, to protect the
inmates from the burning noonday heat, and to shelter them from the
chilling night dews. Occasionally the train stopped at large and
apparently prosperous towns, where there were substantial stone
buildings and busy factories. At these stations Arab venders offered
coffee, lemonade, fruit, and other refreshments to appease the hunger
and thirst of the travelers.

The fields were full of life. Each cultivated acre had its dark-hued
laborers with hoes, or bare-legged toilers drawing water from the
ditches for irrigating the thirsty land, or plowmen guiding teams of
ungainly, striding camels or dark gray, crooked-horned oxen. In the lush
meadows many of these curious-looking animals were grazing. The camels,
the small donkeys, and the gray oxen or water-buffaloes as the natives
called them, tied to stakes, were restricted to the pasturage within
reach of their tethers. Along some of the irrigating canals naked
dark-skinned men and boys splashed about in the water, or stood
unabashed on the bank of the stream, gazing at the passing train.

[Illustration: I. SMALL AND HAZY IN THE DISTANCE.]

[Illustration: II. "MADAM MIGHT DROP HER SHAWL."]

"Look at that scene," cried one of the passengers. "I wonder whether our
cattle at home would not enjoy similar treatment."

In the canal some naked boys were mounted on a buffalo, and near them an
Arab, also in the water, was scrubbing the back of another buffalo, to
the evident enjoyment of that animal.

As we approached Cairo, the great valley of the delta narrowed, and
mountain boundaries loomed up in the distance. Far away to the right the
tops of the Pyramids, looking very small, silhouetted the sky. On the
left, high hills broke the landscape, and presently the buildings and
minarets that crowned the hills were outlined on the horizon. Handsome
villas, beautiful gardens, good roads, and increasing traffic in the
suburbs indicated the nearness of a prosperous city.

Just four hours after leaving Alexandria our train entered the station
at Cairo, where hotel-runners, cab-men, and porters gave the passengers
a noisy reception. Complete ar