after an early breakfast, we started
at seven o'clock to visit the Tombs of the Kings and the temples on the
west side of the Nile,--the village of Luxor and the temples of Luxor
and Karnak being on the east side. Crossing the river in ferry boats
propelled by sails and oars, the tourists found donkeys, boys,
chair-men, lunch carriers, guides, and extra men crowding the western
shore. We had hardly landed when the donkey boys surrounded us,
gesticulating, shouting the merits of themselves and their beasts, and
pleading that their donkeys might be selected. Much to my surprise,
Abda, the offended and angry boy of the Karnak ride, pushed his way to
my side with Alice Lovell and smilingly claimed me as his friend and
benefactor, with the familiar tale: "Alice Lovell a good donkey; Abda a
good donkey boy," so our relations were renewed.

The ladies decided that the men's saddles would be more comfortable for
a long ride, and that there would be less danger of the saddle turning;
so side saddles were generally dispensed with and most of the women
mounted astride. From the landing we rode slowly over a long stretch
of loose sand, tiresome to the donkeys, and then along a good path on
the embankment of an irrigating ditch. The sun was sending down hot rays
by the time we reached our first halting place, the Temple of Kurna, and
we were glad to dismount and seek shelter and rest in the shade of the
great walls while we examined the beautifully executed reliefs and
inscriptions.

[Illustration: BESIDE ONE OF THESE IS A SMALL FIGURE OF THE QUEEN.]

In the treasure chamber of the temple, Mahmoud related the story of the
architect who built the chamber for King Seti. "This rascal of an
architect," said Mahmoud, "left one stone loose so that he could
secretly remove it and enter the chamber to steal. The robber was caught
in the act of carrying off the treasure and fittingly punished as you
may see represented in the reliefs on the walls. This man pictured here
in disgrace and chains as a warning to ill-doers was the first thief in
Egypt, but I am sorry to say he was not the last."

After leaving the Temple of Kurna, which is situated near the cliffs
that bound the Nile valley, our procession entered a narrow ravine
through which the path leads to the Tombs of the Kings. Here we met
another large party of Americans and we all rode together for some
distance, one of the tourists meeting a friend whom she had not seen for
seven y