igh nose, sunken cheeks, and straggling hair on the
head and chin. The tombs of Ramses III, Ramses IV, and Ramses IX were
interesting each in its own way. That of Ramses III had, in addition to
the sacred scenes, pictures of agricultural and family life; plowing,
sowing, reaping, baking, slaughtering, and cooking.

"Shall we return through the gorge or take the shorter path over the
cliffs and obtain a view of the Nile valley?" inquired the dragoman.

[Illustration: USED CHISELS ON LASTING STONE INSTEAD OF BRUSHES ON
PERISHABLE CANVAS.]

Some, dreading the exertion under a broiling sun, chose the level road
on a donkey's back. Others, intent on obtaining the view, started to
climb the zigzag path regardless of the glare of the sun, the donkey
boys following with the donkeys. The view from the summit amply repaid
us for the climb. On one side we looked down into the desolate valley of
the Tombs. On the other we saw the rich green valley of the Nile, with
groups of palms, villages, and temples. Directly below at the foot of
the yellow cliff, and in strong contrast to it, was the white marble
temple of Der-al-bahri. And not far from the temple was a cottage, which
at once became interesting to the tired party when the guide, pointing
to it, said: "That is the rest-house. A good luncheon will be ready on
the tables when you arrive there."

[Illustration: POSED TO BE KODAKED.]

We had been riding on a very narrow trail along the edge of a precipice,
but now we dismounted and descended, on foot, a winding path, too steep
and dangerous for riding, that led us to the rest-house in the valley
below. Here, at the Chalet Hatasu, as it was named, the servants had
unpacked the hampers which they had brought from the hotel at Luxor, and
the hungry travelers were soon seated around well-spread tables. During
the meal a throng of scantily clad men, boys, and small children
assembled outside the Chalet. These bare-footed Arabs offered for sale
scarabs, stone mummy images, mummified feet, skulls, beads, and trinkets
so clamorously and persistently that our dragoman had to use his long
lashed whip to clear the way. After leaving the chalet, naked boys,
apparently from four to ten years of age, followed us with outstretched
hands, begging for backsheesh. Some of these boys earned money by posing
to be kodaked.

[Illustration: I. COLOSSUS OF RAMSES LAY BROKEN.]

[Illustration: II. MOSLEMS HAD MUTILATED THE STATUES.]

[Illustration: