this morning when the sea was
rougher than now. Trust the boatmen and you will soon be safely on board
the steamer."

As our boat in its passage over the stormy billows plunged downward into
the trough of the sea, and horizon, ship, and land were hidden from
view, we thought that the uplifted, on-coming crests of the waves would
engulf the boat beneath them; but, expertly handled by the trained
rowers, the craft rose with each immense surge and safely passed the
breakers. The Syrian boatmen, who had been continually chanting their
hymns to Allah while plying their oars, suddenly stopped singing.

"Bachsheesh! Backsheesh!" they cried, ceasing to row, while one of them,
doffing his fez, passed it around the boat for contributions. The
passengers, grateful for safety, dropped their coins into the fez;
again the oars were put in motion, the chant was resumed, and in a few
minutes the boats were alongside the vessel.

[Illustration: SHE WAS WASHING CLOTHES IN THE CANAL.]

Then came the difficulty of getting on board the steamer; for the little
boat lay underneath the platform at the foot of the ship's ladder,
tossed by the billows. As each heaving swell, however, bore the boat
upward, two sturdy seamen on the platform, reaching down, grasped a
passenger's arms and drew him up while the boatmen assisted from
underneath. In this way, one with each wave, the tourists safely
embarked. The passage from the pier to the steamer affected the tourists
in various ways: many were frightened, notwithstanding the assertion of
the official that the dangers were more apparent than real; others were
exhilarated by the tossing waves and enjoyed the thrilling experience.

"I was so interested in watching the muscular development of the boatmen
as they pulled at the oars, and in admiring the dexterity and skill with
which they managed the boat, that I did not think of danger," remarked a
man who had been stroke oar on a college crew.

While the tourists were being transferred to the ship, the band on deck
was playing "Home, Sweet Home," and the Captain and other officers
standing at the head of the stairway gave a friendly greeting to the
wanderers as they came on board.

"It is pleasant to be welcomed back in this friendly manner," remarked
one of the ramblers to another as they entered their cabin, "and then it
is so homelike here in our stateroom, with our photographs and
nick-nacks pinned around the walls."

[Illustration: BELOW