THE CITADEL WE SAW AN OPEN-AIR MARKET.]

A busy afternoon of re-packing followed the departure from Jaffa, for on
the following day the tourists were to leave the steamer at Alexandria
to remain twelve days in Egypt. Clothing that was considered suitable
for the climate of that warmer region was carefully selected and
condensed into the smaller receptacles, and every article that the
tourists supposed would not be required was left in the staterooms.

On Tuesday morning, March tenth, at seven o'clock, the Moltke was
anchored in the commodious port of Alexandria, which is enclosed by long
stone breakwaters that have been built into the sea to protect the
harbor. Many vessels were at the docks or at anchor in the port, and a
handsome white yacht flying the imperial flag of Germany lay within a
stone's throw of our steamer.

"The Crown Prince of the German Empire is visiting Egypt and that is his
yacht," said one of the officers.

The morning was bright and clear. It was a delight to breathe the warm
salt air and feel its invigoration. Overhead the sky was brilliantly
blue and the sea reflected it in various hues.

"Did you ever see such wonderful coloring on the waters of sea or
river?" asked an enthusiastic beholder. "Near by the sea sparkles in the
morning sunlight in azure and olive and darkens into sapphire and
emerald, and there beyond the breakwater it changes to tints of violet
and purple. I have heard that the colors of the Mediterranean are
beautiful; now I know they are."

The row boats that were to carry us ashore gathered around the steamer.
The bare-footed boatmen, with faces of various shades from light yellow
to intense black, were attired in red fez, white bloomers, and long
red sweaters.

[Illustration: AT THE NILE BRIDGE WE WAITED FOR THE DRAW TO CLOSE.]

At the custom house on the dock the custom officials accepted the
statement of the managers that the baggage of the tourists contained
nothing dutiable, and the baggage was passed without examination. A
special train was on the pier ready to convey the party to Cairo.
Beggars and peddlers attempted to approach the train to ask alms or sell
their wares, but were driven away with whips by black Nubian soldiers in
dark blue uniforms, who appeared to take delight in snapping at the bare
legs of the intruders.

It was just noon when our train, the second special section, moved out
of Alexandria through long rows of large warehouses; for Alexandria