viduals knew nothing of foreign coins and wanted payment in their
own currency. As it was desirable at all times to have plenty of small
coins on hand, the tourists soon became acquainted with the value of
shillings and pence, francs and centimes, drachmae and lepta, piasters
and paras. On our arrival at each port the managers of the tour and the
purser of the vessel obtained a large number of small coins of that
particular country so that the needs of the tourists could be promptly
supplied.

Our room at the Hospice was rather cold but my room-mate said there was
one compensation, we need have no fear of the hotel's burning down and
so need not be anxious as to the location of the fire escapes before
retiring. The Casa Nova is a stone building with stone stairways and
floors. In our room there was nothing inflammable but the mosquito
nettings and lace draperies over the iron bedsteads. Two candles
furnished us with light, hempen rugs covered portions of the black and
white marble floor, a gilded crucifix hung on the painted stone wall,
and two chairs, a small table, and a washstand completed the furnishing.

[Illustration: I. ENTERED BY THE JAFFA GATE.]

[Illustration: II. STOOD IN THE PALACE OF CAIAPHAS.]

Early Thursday morning, with bright anticipations, we started for a
visit to Bethlehem. The drive of six miles over a good limestone road
was one of much interest. Our dragoman pointed out the well where the
wise men, stooping to drink, saw the reflection of the star in the
water before they beheld the star itself in the sky.

[Illustration: CAMELS SINGLE AND CAMELS IN TRAINS.]

"Why, how could that be?" inquired one of the party. "I thought the wise
men were following the star."

But the guide did not attempt to explain. It was his business to state
facts in which he had believed all his life; not to enter into disputes
with unbelievers as to the truth of his statements. He showed us a great
rock in the road where Elijah, wearied in his flight, lay down to rest.
It seemed to be a hard bed for a tired man, but we remembered that in
olden times rocks and caves were selected for sleeping-places and stones
often served for pillows.

[Illustration: RECALLED TO MEMORY THE OLD LOVE STORY.]

Camels were so numerous on the road that they lost their
novelty,--camels single and camels in trains, with great hampers
swinging at their sides laden with sacks of lime or charcoal, with
building stone or cauliflower, with