cakes of camels' dung which the girls had gathered and were taking
home for fuel.

Rachel's tomb, situated four miles from Jerusalem, and about two miles
from Bethlehem, recalled to memory the old love story: "And Jacob served
Laban seven years for Rachel; and they seemed unto him but a few days,
for the love he had for her."

[Illustration: THE PEOPLE OF BETHLEHEM WERE BRIGHT AND CHEERFUL.]

Cut in the rock, near Bethlehem is an ancient well, known as the well of
David. From that point we obtained a good view of the square stone
houses of the little town of Bethlehem, which is built on a sloping
hill-side, and of the great spreading Church of the Nativity, which is
the dominating feature of the place. Beyond the city we saw a verdant
plain, where possibly Ruth gleaned, and, farther away, the hills where
probably David led his flock to "green pastures" and the shepherds of
later days received the "tidings of great joy."

In the narrow streets of Bethlehem our driver shouted to men, women, and
children to clear the way and make room for the carriages to pass
through, snapping his whip at them if they did not quickly obey. When we
arrived at the old Church of the Holy Nativity we were told that this
venerable place is in reality a group of buildings, the original edifice
having been built fifteen or more centuries ago, and many additions
having been made in after years. We saw a structure of yellowish stone
walls pierced with small windows which appeared to us more like a prison
or a fortress than a place of worship. There were no stained glass
windows. There was no imposing portal opening into the temple. On
entering the sacred enclosure we passed through a door in the stone wall
so low that we were compelled to stoop and so narrow that but one at a
time might enter.

"This doorway," said the guide, "should remind the pilgrims that the
birthplace of the Savior is to be visited with humility and reverence."

In the large, time-worn interior of the church, faded mosaics, huge
columns, and stone floors presented a rather gloomy aspect. The tourists
hastened through and descended to the crypt or vault underneath the
church. This vault was paved with marble, and on a raised platform in
the centre was a large, handsomely decorated altar. Suspended from the
ceiling were many ancient lamps of curious make and smaller lamps
hanging in festoons. On one side was a small room, called the Chapel of
the Nativity, where thirty g