bay in
which Vranjic lies, passing beneath Salona, and, crossing the Jader,
arrives at the Spalato station through cuttings which prevent one from
seeing anything of the palace wall.

On other occasions we went by boat, reaching Spalato in the evening.
After the Punta Planka, the ancient Promontorium Syrtis is passed, where
the water is often rough, since there is no protecting screen of
islands, the campanili and towers of Trau come into sight, between which
and Bua there is a swing bridge across the channel. Beyond this the boat
passes under the lee of Bua, on the shore of which is a solitary white
monastery; whilst on the opposite shore the buildings of the Castelli
throw long tremulous reflections across the water, and boats with sails
painted in various colours and patterns pass to right and left, flushed
with the rays of the setting sun, and leaving trails of light or dark
behind them according as the water reflects the land or the sky. As the
sun sinks lower, leaving the sea in shadow, the glow upon the hills
becomes more and more roseate, till at last it fades, as the strait is
passed and the harbour opens. The smoke from a cement factory hangs in
the air like evening mists in an English valley; and, as we approach
still nearer, the long line of buildings upon the quays, dominated by
the great campanile and the colonnade of Diocletian's palace, gradually
grows more impressive in the failing light.

[Illustration: THE PORTA MARINA AND CUSTOM HOUSE, TRAU

_To face page 265_]

It is distinctly asserted by Strabo that Trau, the ancient Tragurium,
was founded in the fourth century B.C.. by Greek Sicilians from Lissa.
At a later date it was certainly a Roman colony. After the fall of the
Western empire it was subject to the emperors of Byzantium, and for
forty years or so in the ninth century to the Franks, after which
Hungarians, Byzantines, Genoese, and Croats struggled for it, till in
1420 it was taken by Venice. Its first privilege was granted by
Coloman of Hungary in 1108, renewed and amplified by Stephen in 1124,
Geysa III. in 1151, and Bela III. in 1182. Bela IV., with his family,
treasures, and a brilliant following, took refuge here in 1241 from the
Tartar hordes. He was received with due honours, and conceded in return
the confirmation of ancient privileges, &c. The city was mainly Slav
during the Middle Ages, and, on the whole, was happy and peaceful under
Hungarian rule, though sacked by the Saracens