the action of the inhabitants who refused to leave it
notwithstanding the ruin wrought by the earthquake of 1667, when it was
proposed to move the community to a safer situation. The grey town upon
its rocky seat, lighted by the brilliant sun, contrasts with the blue of
the sea and the green of the luxuriant vegetation (much of it tropical),
amidst which villas nestle picturesquely, and from the cliffs on either
side at morning and evening the glow of the sun's level rays, or the
characteristic silhouettes of town and rock are equally effective,
according to the position of the spectator. But the sea, which is
generally calm and blue, can be lashed to fury when _scirocco_ blows, so
strongly sometimes that it is difficult to keep one's feet, and, though
storms do not usually last many days, the spray has been known to fly
right over Fort S. Lorenzo, situated on an isolated rock 100 ft. above
the water.

Large steamers cannot enter the little harbour, so Gravosa, on the
estuary of the Ombla, a mile or so away, serves as the usual port. It is
sheltered by the rocky island of Daxa, and affords another of those fine
harbours with which Dalmatia is so well provided. On one of our visits
to Ragusa we stayed at the Hotel Petka at Gravosa, and in front of the
windows a flotilla of torpedo-boats lay at anchor with steam up. It was
interesting to see the men doing everything to word of command. In the
morning they got up at a signal; drew up water to a signal, washed
themselves and then the boats, prepared meals, &c., &c., all in public
view, for there was very little deck and apparently no room below at
all. In the hotel we were interested by some tame swallows, which flew
about the hall and came into the restaurant; but a detestable mechanical
piano, operated by an electrical motor on the penny-in-the-slot plan,
which was a source of great pleasure to some Slav visitors, interfered a
good deal with our comfort. I am sorry to say that when I had time to
look over the account for the rooms (for we were hurried in leaving) I
found that we had been charged for a day more than we had been there,
the only instance of such a thing which we experienced in our journeys
up and down the coast. Some of the houses along the road by the water
have delightful gardens, and piles of fruit and vegetables made
fascinating colour compositions by the waterside, whilst the vivid
colour of some of the strange costumes, such as that of the quaint old
H