the Porta Marina we found a shooting-saloon established on
our second visit, with a number of moving figures, which performed on
the marksman hitting a certain point, the most diverting of which
were an old woman with a kicking donkey, and two fighting goats. Several
soldiers tried their hands, but with very indifferent success. Great
excitement was evoked by an accident while the mails were being unloaded
one afternoon; a post-van fell into the water, many large postal parcels
being damaged, and part of the top of the van ripped off by the measures
adopted for its recovery. This "Riva" was the scene of the murder of
Danilo II. in 1860.

The walls, which are 28 ft. high, were built in 1667, after the older
ones had been thrown down by an earthquake. These must have been strong,
since the city was blockaded in vain by a Venetian fleet in 1378, and
attacked by the Turks equally vainly in 1539, 1569, 1572, and 1657. The
present walls zigzag up the mountain to the Fort S. Giovanni, which
dominates the roads leading into Montenegro. From the fort one looks
down upon the first house beyond the frontier. A little below the fort
is a threatening mass of rock, which has been bound with iron to prevent
it from falling upon the city below. The Montenegrin road climbs the
mountain with no less than sixty-six zigzags.

At a little chapel with an early Renaissance facade some way outside the
town, the Angelus bell hung outside just below the gable termination,
without any visible means of being rung, and we wondered how this was
done, until we happened one day to be within sight at the Angelus hour,
when we saw a man bring out a ladder and ascend to within reach of a
short cord hanging from the clapper, which he seized and agitated!

[Illustration: A CORNER OF THE WALLS, CATTARO]

The military are on the look-out for spies, and our camera occasioned
two or three very searching inquiries. I congratulated myself upon
having obtained authority to photograph from headquarters, without which
we should certainly have been stopped. After taking the group of the
Albanian horsedealers (who crossed with us to Bari with their
merchandise) we wished to have a separate figure of the villain to the
left; but the next man, who was master of the gang, thought time enough
had been lost, and, taking the halter from a horse, twisted it round his
neck by way of explaining that he was his servant, and that he objected
to any further interruption to b