y, since a consecration by Bishop Doimo
II. is recorded in 1368; but it has been a Greek church since 1689, was
enlarged in 1747, and the structure shows signs of considerable
rebuilding. The iconostasis is of the seventeenth century; the paintings
are covered with silver plates. There is a huge cross with wings at the
base and paintings. Through the central arch the _arca_ and a little
cross are seen. The chapel of S. Spiridion also has its iconostasis. At
Easter time two processional crosses of silver and a Resurrection banner
decorate the church outside the iconostasis. The Cattarine silversmiths
have also executed work away from their own shores. It will be
remembered that Stephen IV. of Servia gave a silver altar to the church
of S. Nicola, Bari, in 1322, the work of Abrado of Cattaro.

There are a few interesting doors and windows in the town, of various
periods. The Palazzo Drago, near the cathedral, has a pretty window of
something the same style as the east window of the cathedral; the great
doorway of the provincial tribunal has some fine heraldry in the
tympanum (a helmeted lion, with another lion for the crest) and angels
in the spandrils, while upon the caps beneath the lintel are other
lions, with shields flying from their necks. These are of the late
Venetian period. The facade of the Nautical School, illustrated,
displays a bold and unusual treatment, and there is a well near the
hotel with elaborate and massive iron-work about the pump connected with
it. The streets and alleys are all of the same width, and badly lighted,
and it is a difficult place to find one's way about after dark. The only
amusement available is usually the large cafe on the Riva, which appears
to be open at all hours of the day and night--at least, we had coffee
there before leaving by boat at 4.15 a.m. The gates are shut at 9 p.m.,
except the Porta Marina. Over this gate the Venetian lion still appears,
a rather late example, but in refreshing contrast with the griffins
supporting the Austrian arms above, a work of 1814. Outside are gigantic
oleander-trees, and, to the right, the market, where many Montenegrins
may be seen in their striking costumes. Beyond the Porta Gordicchio is
the wood market, and one for horses and forage is outside the Porta
Fiumara, where the barrack for belated Montenegrins stands, for they are
not admitted within the walls.

[Illustration: THE SCUOLA NAUTICA, CATTARO

_To face page 386_]

Just outside