. The Bocchesi were noted for their
honourable fidelity to their word once given, and this probity is still
recognised in their commercial dealings. The married sons usually live
in the house till the father's death; then the property is divided, and
each takes his own house. If the mother is alive she lives with the
eldest son. The house master divides the food, giving sufficient to each
one, so that he would sometimes go short himself if the girls and
daughters-in-law were not always ready to offer him the best part of
their portions. The country women of Montenegro always kiss the hand of
a male acquaintance in greeting. On the road the man is met on mule-back
smoking, the woman on foot with a load, and they neither of them would
consent to change their position, and put the load on the mule and make
the man walk. The men wear full breeches, a waistcoat and sash round the
waist, and a thick whitish wool coat over it, which is sometimes girded
with the sash, leggings, and the usual raw-hide shoes. On the head is a
black silk cap with a magenta centre embroidered with gold thread. The
women wear a coat of the same shape, but of lighter material, and
sleeveless, over a kind of jacket, and on the head the same shaped cap
with a handkerchief draped over it and hanging down at the back.

[Illustration: MONTENEGRINS IN THE MARKET, CATTARO]

Cattaro has about 2,000 inhabitants, of whom scarcely ten families are
old-established; all the old families are dead, or have emigrated. Part
of the present population are Italian immigrants; part are Albanian and
Montenegrin families (to which nationality many of the country people
also belong), who, either for purposes of trade or craft, have settled
in the town. From many towns in Austria come the sub-alterns, who have
married and now live here. The usual language is Croat, but Italian is
generally understood, and songs with the Venetian accent may be heard.
But all are much interested in the "Marinerezza," the finest festival of
the Bocche, held on February 3. On January 27 the preliminaries
commence. The marine officers arrange themselves on the seat before the
cathedral at midday. As soon as the clock has struck the second stroke
of 12 the "little sea director," a boy of nine or ten, comes out on the
gallery above the door, armed and in national costume, and, in Croat,
delivers a short speech announcing the beginning of the festival, and
calling the citizens to take part in it. At