as rebuilt in 1624, and in 1654 was plundered by the
Turks, and then almost ruined by earthquake in 1667. The French erected
a battery upon it, which was abandoned some thirty years ago. The
church-was restored for service on October 27, 1878.
Near Risano, at Sopoti (the rushing), is an intermittent waterfall 45
ft. high, which I was told was 100 ft. wide. As soon as it runs dry the
cave from which it issued can be entered for several hundred yards. The
flow commences after heavy rains, and at the same times a well, or
spring, at Cattaro spirts up with such force as to throw out stones of
several pounds' weight. Above Risano are two strong fortresses, erected
after the insurrection of the Crivoscians in 1881. The revolt of 500 men
against conscription necessitated the mobilisation of a whole _corps
d'armee_ to subjugate them. They lived on the slopes of inaccessible
mountains, and the troops had to make the mountain paths into roads
practicable for artillery. The rebels were taken between troops from
Risano and Orohovac, and others who came from the Herzegovinian
mountains. Part laid down their arms, and part fled into Montenegro. To
prevent a recurrence of the trouble, and perhaps also with an eye to
Montenegro, the forts and a number of blockhouses were built, which one
may see high up the mountains, sometimes against the sky-line.
A white line about 3,000 ft. high marks the military road between
Perasto and Cattaro; the way of access to the blockhouses, in each of
which a detachment of twenty-five men, with two non-commissioned
officers and one lieutenant, is on duty for a year at a time, bearing
great heat in summer (for it is said that an egg laid on the rock in the
sun is hard in eight minutes), while in winter they are often blocked by
the snow for two or three weeks together.
Perasto is now a little place of some 500 inhabitants, but shows in its
ruined palaces and unfinished church that it was once populous and
prosperous. It has had a stormy history, during which the Perastines
have shown themselves sturdy fighters and loyal supporters of their
overlords, and is the one city of the Bocche which remained faithful and
grateful to Venice, even after Campo Formio. When the Austrian troops
came to take possession, the gonfalon, which had been confided to the
Perastines by the Republic, as a reward for their faithful services
almost four centuries before, was buried beneath the altar of S. Nicolo
with a solemn
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