north-west was the
northern slip of territory which Ragusa gave to Turkey to prevent her
territories touching those of Venice, the little peninsula of Klek, with
about two-thirds of a mile of coast and the little port of Neum. On the
south the Sutorina valley fulfilled the same function. Both were handed
over to Turkey in 1699 at the peace of Carlowitz with the assistance of
Spain, and were only incorporated with Austria in 1878.

[Illustration: PORTA PILE, RAGUSA

_To face page 336_]

The road to Ragusa climbs the neck of the peninsula of Lapad, where the
Ragusan merchants had their villas in their days of prosperity, passing
the exercising-ground, up and down which recruits march and manoeuvre
notwithstanding the heat. The high walls have masses of flowers hanging
over them and little summer-houses perched upon them here and there
among the verdure. At the bottom of the descent is a tree-planted
promenade, across which the grey walls of the Porta Pile glimmer,
pierced with a low arch above which the patron saint, S. Biagio, looks
forth from an early Renaissance niche, with his hand raised in blessing,
as he does from above the other gates and from the huge bulk of the
Torre Menze, the great tower crowning the line of walls which ramps up
the slope to the left. The situation is magnificent, and from the sea
the view of the town is unique among Dalmatian cities by reason of the
strong sea walls, a sign of freedom from the supremacy of Venice, whose
winged lion only appears in one place, by the convent of S. Maria, on
the gate to the sea, closed in 1358, where the upper border of the panel
may also be seen. Within these walls the streets are mere narrow lanes
in one direction, and in the other mainly flights of steps which climb
the hill. Fine effects of light are produced in consequence, especially
when the street dives beneath houses through dark arches. The only broad
street is the Stradone, which runs from one gate to the other, and was
once an arm of the sea, though one can scarcely believe that it could
have been so sufficiently recently to have allowed of the ships lying
close to the merchants' houses in the time of Ragusan prosperity,
as some say. The houses along this street are all of the same character,
and were, no doubt, built after the great earthquake of 1667. Many of
them have shops beneath an arch, half of which is filled by the counter,
while on the wall outside hang draperies of ravishing colours, o