a door apparently of the ninth century. It has a
scroll pattern up the jambs and across the lintel, with the
characteristic triple furrowing, and above the lintel a palmette
cornice; on the reveal is a twisted guilloche treated in the same
manner. There are two or three early churches of little interest on the
hill; one at least has been rebuilt. Gelcich says: "Of the Byzantine
epoch, except the bas-reliefs of S. Stefano, nothing remains save a
memory in the name of the mountain above the city, and the worship of
some saint whose name recalls the East."

The present cathedral was rebuilt between 1667 and 1713, and is of the
usual character. It, however, possesses several good pictures and a very
rich treasury. The most interesting of the pictures is a triptych or
portable altar, an old Bruges picture, which the envoys took with them
when they went to Constantinople every three years to pay the tribute.
The subject is the Adoration of the Magi. In the centre the Virgin is
seated with the Child on her lap. He is kneeling, and extending His hand
to the oldest of the three kings, who has placed sceptre and gifts at
the Saviour's feet. Behind him is another king; through arches a
landscape is seen at the back. On the left wing are the third king, a
Moor, with a group of figures and landscape behind. On the right wing is
a bald-headed man in a rich robe, and in the background a castle. The
centre panel is 2 ft. 9 in. high by 1 ft. 9 in. broad. It is in the
style of Memling. There are also several Padovaninos and pictures
ascribed to Titian and others, a Palma Vecchio, and a fine head of
Christ by Pordenone.

[Illustration: RELIQUARY OF THE HEAD OF S. BLAISE, CATHEDRAL TREASURY,
RAGUSA

_To face page 343_]

The formalities for opening the treasure caused us some trouble. We
arrived just as the usual weekly exhibition was over, and I was told
that it was impossible for it to be opened again for seven days. I
explained that I had a special permission from the Government to see
such things, but that I preferred asking Monsignore (and the little
Canon who opened the treasury) to be good enough to give me the
facilities which I desired. He asked to have the _statthalter's_ letter
to show the bishop. I knew, of course, that he wanted to take it to the
_municipio_, to see if it was authentic, and therefore consented, on his
engaging to return it; and so we parted. The next day I was allowed to
enter the treasury, thereby obligi