s drawn up on the shore. In a private garden is
a palm-tree said to be the most northerly specimen in Dalmatia, though
there are several at Lussin Piccolo, which is much farther north.

Our first visit to Trau was made by carriage from Spalato, and occupied
the whole of a most delightful day, for we did not get back till long
after dark. The excellent road is due to the French, but follows the
line of that made by the Romans or before their time, passing quite near
the Castelli, some of which we were able to visit. It was spring: the
vines were making long shoots, and the fields and banks were gemmed with
flowers; on one side, the sapphire sea; on the other, the mountain
slopes, with scented breezes to cool the ardour of the sun. For the most
part the peasants, men and women, were busy in the fields, or washing by
the stream, and appeared well-to-do, though we passed one man half
naked, searching his garments upon a heap of stones. But he, we gathered
from a gendarme near, was considered weak in the head. Long before the
town is approached, the towers of Trau are silhouetted against the
horizon, emphasising the point of land which they terminate, grey walls
and dark trees running together into a mass, but contrasting with each
other on a nearer view. We started on our return a little before sunset,
while the sun's level rays cast long simplifying shadows across the
landscape, and enjoyed the glow upon flowery hillside and purple crag,
from which the houses flashed out like jewels, and the water beneath
changed its colour with the changing sky. The twilight faded while we
were passing Salona, and in the long climb to the crest of the rising
ground above Spalato we had only the light of the carriage lamps,
finally alighting outside the northern wall of the palace (for carriages
cannot enter within the town) weary, but filled with delightful
impressions and recollections. Another time we went by boat, starting at
6 o'clock, and enjoying the early morning freshness of effect. In this
trip also we had the opportunity of visiting some of the Castelli, which
are interesting generally rather for their picturesqueness than for
archaeological reasons. In the chapter dealing with Spalato will be found
some details as to remains of the early Croatian period found along the
coast and in the environs. At Castel Vecchio we saw on the wall of the
churchyard a cross with a much damaged antique cap as base, and another
antique base on a l