"the rest of the episcopal habit," i.e. the chimere. The robe has thus
become in the Church of England symbolical of the episcopal office, and
is in effect a liturgical vestment. The rubric containing this direction
was added to the Book of Common Prayer in 1662; and there is proof that
the development of the chimere into at least a choir vestment was
subsequent to the Reformation. Foxe, indeed, mentions that Hooper at his
consecration wore "a long scarlet chymere down to the foot" (_Acts and
Mon._, ed. 1563, p. 1051), a source of trouble to himself and of scandal
to other extreme reformers; but that this was no more than the full
civil dress of a bishop is proved by the fact that Archbishop Parker at
his consecration wore surplice and tippet, and only put on the chimere,
when the service was over, to go away in. This civil quality of the
garment still survives alongside the other; the full dress of an
Anglican prelate at civil functions of importance (e.g. in parliament,
or at court) is still rochet and chimere.
The continental equivalent of the chimere is the _zimarra_ or
_simarre_, which is defined by foreign ecclesiologists (Moroni,
Barbier de Montault) as a kind of _soutane_ (cassock), from which it
is distinguished by having a small cape and short, open arms
(_manches-fausses_) reaching to the middle of the upper arm and
decorated with buttons. In France and Germany it is fitted more or
less to the figure; in Italy it is wider and falls down straight in
front. Like the _soutane_, the _zimarra_ is not proper to any
particular rank of clergy, but in the case of bishops and prelates it
is ornamented with red buttons and bindings. It never has a train
(_cauda_). It is not universally worn, e.g. in Germany apparently only
by prelates. G. Moroni identifies the _zimarra_ with the _epitogium_
which Domenico Magri, in his _Hierolexicon_ (ed. 1677), calls the
uppermost garment of the clergy, worn over the _soutane_ (_toga_)
instead of the _mantellum_ (_vestis suprema clericorum loco pallii_),
with a cross-reference to _Tabardum_, the "usual" upper garment
(_pallium usuale_); and this definition is repeated in the 8th edition
of the work (1732). From this it appears that so late as the middle of
the 18th century the _zimarra_ was still in common use as an
out-of-doors overcoat. But, according to Moroni, by the latter half of
the 19th century the _zimarra_, though still worn by certa
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