he Sacred Chapel of St. John the Baptist, but my
wife was mysteriously prohibited, as women had been concerned in the
saint's martyrdom. I believe this stern order is waived once a year,
probably by payment of a pretty large fee for conciliation. There are
other chapels, paintings, and relics that are well worthy the trouble
and time of study, making this ancient cathedral the most interesting
duomo in Genoa.

St. Ambrogio, in the Via del Sellag, is rich in pictures: Ruben's
"Circumcision," and his "St. Ignatius," healing a man possessed of an
evil spirit, and also Guido's "Assumption." It is splendid in colouring
and wonderful in the elaboration of detail. These to some may appear too
extravagant. The Santa Maria di Carignano, or Church of the Assumption,
in the same street, is one of the finest in Genoa. The walk from here,
along the walls and ramparts of St. Chiara, gives a splendid view.

Many other churches, some sixty in number, are well worth a visit; but,
like the palaces, they require considerable time to properly appreciate
them.

One scarcely likes to see all these gorgeous buildings, with so lavish a
display of the money laid out on their profuse decoration, when the
mendicant poor, the halt, maimed, and blind are crowding the porches,
piteously begging alms; it spoils your pleasure and study of these
beautiful edifices. We ought, however, to recollect that at home we have
our crossing-sweepers, match and flower sellers, and many wretched
objects of suffering and poverty, who perhaps make a similar impression
on foreigners visiting our great and prosperous London, but who will
perhaps marvel also at our lukewarmness and niggardliness in beautifying
our St Paul's and other churches.

At the commencement of our stay here the weather was warm and bright,
but on the day following our arrival a most sudden change occurred, and
it was very wet, and on Sunday bitterly cold. We went to the English
church, and afterwards walked to the top of the fine street leading from
the Carlo Felice, right up the valley at the foot of the mountains, and
there we had a most glorious view. The Campo Santo in the distance; the
harbour on the right; and the great hills, with their strong forts
perched on every projecting point and pinnacle, all covered with snow;
quite a white world since the day before. We saw ice in the streets, and
were glad to return to the Hotel Isotta. The poor fasting Priests seemed
quite nipped up; and th