r, we found good accommodation.
I shall not pretend to describe the castle or palace of Fontainbleau,
of which I had only a glimpse in passing; but the forest, in the middle
of which it stands, is a noble chace of great extent, beautifully wild
and romantic, well stored with game of all sorts, and abounding with
excellent timber. It put me in mind of the New Forest in Hampshire; but
the hills, rocks, and mountains, with which it is diversified, render
it more agreeable.
The people of this country dine at noon, and travellers always find an
ordinary prepared at every auberge, or public-house, on the road. Here
they sit down promiscuously, and dine at so much a head. The usual
price is thirty sols for dinner, and forty for supper, including
lodging; for this moderate expence they have two courses and a dessert.
If you eat in your own apartment, you pay, instead of forty sols,
three, and in some places, four livres ahead. I and my family could not
well dispense with our tea and toast in the morning, and had no stomach
to eat at noon. For my own part, I hate French cookery, and abominate
garlick, with which all their ragouts, in this part of the country, are
highly seasoned: we therefore formed a different plan of living upon
the road. Before we left Paris, we laid in a stock of tea, chocolate,
cured neats' tongues, and saucissons, or Bologna sausages, both of
which we found in great perfection in that capital, where, indeed,
there are excellent provisions of all sorts. About ten in the morning
we stopped to breakfast at some auberge, where we always found bread,
butter, and milk. In the mean time, we ordered a poulard or two to be
roasted, and these, wrapped in a napkin, were put into the boot of the
coach, together with bread, wine, and water. About two or three in the
afternoon, while the horses were changing, we laid a cloth upon our
knees, and producing our store, with a few earthen plates, discussed
our short meal without further ceremony. This was followed by a dessert
of grapes and other fruit, which we had also provided. I must own I
found these transient refreshments much more agreeable than any regular
meal I ate upon the road. The wine commonly used in Burgundy is so weak
and thin, that you would not drink it in England. The very best which
they sell at Dijon, the capital of the province, for three livres a
bottle, is in strength, and even in flavour, greatly inferior to what I
have drank in London. I believe
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