lar, improved the Roman work
with a new bridge, by apposition, constructed on the same plan with
that of the lower tire of arches, of which indeed it seems to be a
part, affording a broad and commodious passage over the river, to
horses and carriages of all kinds. The aqueduct, for the continuance of
which this superb work was raised, conveyed a stream of sweet water
from the fountain of Eure, near the city of Uzes, and extended near six
leagues in length.
In approaching Nismes, you see the ruins of a Roman tower, built on the
summit of a hill, which over-looks the city. It seems to have been
intended, at first, as a watch, or signal-tower, though, in the sequel,
it was used as a fortress: what remains of it, is about ninety feet
high; the architecture of the Doric order. I no sooner alighted at the
inn, than I was presented with a pamphlet, containing an account of
Nismes and its antiquities, which every stranger buys. There are
persons too who attend in order to shew the town, and you will always
be accosted by some shabby antiquarian, who presents you with medals
for sale, assuring you they are genuine antiques, and were dug out of
the ruins of the Roman temple and baths. All those fellows are cheats;
and they have often laid under contribution raw English travellers, who
had more money than discretion. To such they sell the vilest and most
common trash: but when they meet with a connoisseur, they produce some
medals which are really valuable and curious.
Nismes, antiently called Nemausis, was originally a colony of Romans,
settled by Augustus Caesar, after the battle of Actium. It is still of
considerable extent, and said to contain twelve thousand families; but
the number seems, by this account, to be greatly exaggerated. Certain
it is, the city must have been formerly very extensive, as appears from
the circuit of the antient walls, the remains of which are still to be
seen. Its present size is not one third of its former extent. Its
temples, baths, statues, towers, basilica, and amphitheatre, prove it
to have been a city of great opulence and magnificence. At present, the
remains of these antiquities are all that make it respectable or
remarkable; though here are manufactures of silk and wool, carried on
with good success. The water necessary for these works is supplied by a
source at the foot of the rock, upon which the tower is placed; and
here were discovered the ruins of Roman baths, which had been formed
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