nglish, together with a
concourse of people from different quarters, who come hither for the
re-establishment of their health, has rendered Montpellier one of the
dearest places in the South of France. The city, which is but small,
stands upon a rising ground fronting the Mediterranean, which is about
three leagues to the southward: on the other side is an agreeable
plain, extending about the same distance towards the mountains of the
Cevennes. The town is reckoned well built, and what the French call
bien percee; yet the streets are in general narrow, and the houses
dark. The air is counted salutary in catarrhous consumptions, from its
dryness and elasticity: but too sharp in cases of pulmonary imposthumes.
It was at Montpellier that we saw for the first time any signs of that
gaiety and mirth for which the people of this country are celebrated.
In all other places through which we passed since our departure from
Lyons, we saw nothing but marks of poverty and chagrin. We entered
Montpellier on a Sunday, when the people were all dressed in their best
apparel. The streets were crowded; and a great number of the better
sort of both sexes sat upon stone seats at their doors, conversing with
great mirth and familiarity. These conversations lasted the greatest
part of the night; and many of them were improved with musick both
vocal and instrumental: next day we were visited by the English
residing in the place, who always pay this mark of respect to new
comers. They consist of four or five families, among whom I could pass
the winter very agreeably, if the state of my health and other reasons
did not call me away.
Mr. L-- had arrived two days before me, troubled with the same
asthmatic disorder, under which I have laboured so long. He told me he
had been in quest of me ever since he left England. Upon comparing
notes, I found he had stopped at the door of a country inn in Picardy,
and drank a glass of wine and water, while I was at dinner up stairs;
nay, he had even spoke to my servant, and asked who was his master, and
the man, not knowing him, replied, he was a gentleman from Chelsea. He
had walked by the door of the house where I lodged at Paris, twenty
times, while I was in that city; and the very day before he arrived at
Montpellier, he had passed our coach on the road.
The garrison of this city consists of two battalions, one of which is
the Irish regiment of Berwick, commanded by lieutenant colonel Tents, a
gent
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