lt, commodious, and
situated; but, for the most part, they are miserable enough. Our
noblesse, notwithstanding their origin, and the cheap rate at which
their titles have been obtained, are nevertheless extremely tenacious
of their privileges, very delicate in maintaining the etiquette, and
keep at a very stately distance from the Bourgeoisie. How they live in
their families, I do not choose to enquire; but, in public, Madame
appears in her robe of gold, or silver stuff, with her powder and
frisure, her perfumes, her paint and her patches; while Monsieur Le
Comte struts about in his lace and embroidery. Rouge and fard are more
peculiarly necessary in this country, where the complexion and skin are
naturally swarthy and yellow. I have likewise observed, that most of
the females are pot-bellied; a circumstance owing, I believe, to the
great quantity of vegetable trash which they eat. All the horses,
mules, asses, and cattle, which feed upon grass, have the same
distension. This kind of food produces such acid juices in the stomach,
as excite a perpetual sense of hunger. I have been often amazed at the
voracious appetites of these people. You must not expect that I should
describe the tables and the hospitality of our Nissard gentry. Our
consul, who is a very honest man, told me, he had lived four and thirty
years in the country, without having once eat or drank in any of their
houses.

The noblesse of Nice cannot leave the country without express leave
from the king; and this leave, when obtained, is for a limited time,
which they dare not exceed, on pain of incurring his majesty's
displeasure. They must, therefore, endeavour to find amusements at
home; and this, I apprehend, would be no easy task for people of an
active spirit or restless disposition. True it is, the religion of the
country supplies a never-failing fund of pastime to those who have any
relish for devotion; and this is here a prevailing taste. We have had
transient visits of a puppet-shew, strolling musicians, and
rope-dancers; but they did not like their quarters, and decamped
without beat of drum. In the summer, about eight or nine at night, part
of the noblesse may be seen assembled in a place called the Pare; which
is, indeed, a sort of a street formed by a row of very paltry houses on
one side, and on the other, by part of the town-wall, which screens it
from a prospect of the sea, the only object that could render it
agreeable. Here you may perceiv