the eel species, which might pass for a serpent: it is of a dusky,
black colour, marked with spots of yellow, about eighteen inches, or
two feet long. The Italians call it murena; but whether it is the fish
which had the same name among the antient Romans, I cannot pretend to
determine. The antient murena was counted a great delicacy, and was
kept in ponds for extraordinary occasions. Julius Caesar borrowed six
thousand for one entertainment: but I imagined this was the river
lamprey. The murena of this country is in no esteem, and only eaten by
the poor people.

Craw-fish and trout are rarely found in the rivers among the mountains.
The sword-fish is much esteemed in Nice, and called l'empereur, about
six or seven feet long: but I have never seen it. [Since I wrote the
above letter, I have eaten several times of this fish, which is as
white as the finest veal, and extremely delicate. The emperor
associates with the tunny fish, and is always taken in their company.]
They are very scarce; and when taken, are generally concealed, because
the head belongs to the commandant, who has likewise the privilege of
buying the best fish at a very low price. For which reason, the choice
pieces are concealed by the fishermen, and sent privately to Piedmont
or Genoa. But, the chief fisheries on this coast are of the sardines,
anchovies, and tunny. These are taken in small quantities all the year;
but spring and summer is the season when they mostly abound. In June
and July, a fleet of about fifty fishing-boats puts to sea every
evening about eight o'clock, and catches anchovies in immense
quantities. One small boat sometimes takes in one night twenty-five
rup, amounting to six hundred weight; but it must be observed, that the
pound here, as well as in other parts of Italy, consists but of twelve
ounces. Anchovies, besides their making a considerable article in the
commerce of Nice, are a great resource in all families. The noblesse
and burgeois sup on sallad and anchovies, which are eaten on all their
meagre days. The fishermen and mariners all along this coast have
scarce any other food but dry bread, with a few pickled anchovies; and
when the fish is eaten, they rub their crusts with the brine. Nothing
can be more delicious than fresh anchovies fried in oil: I prefer them
to the smelts of the Thames. I need not mention, that the sardines and
anchovies are caught in nets; salted, barrelled, and exported into all
the different kingdom