At Nuys in Burgundy, he fired it in the air,
and the whole mob dispersed, and scampered off like a flock of sheep.
In our journey hither, we generally set out in a morning at eight
o'clock, and travelled 'till noon, when the mules were put up and
rested a couple of hours. During this halt, Joseph went to dinner, and
we went to breakfast, after which we ordered provision for our
refreshment in the coach, which we took about three or four in the
afternoon, halting for that purpose, by the side of some transparent
brook, which afforded excellent water to mix with our wine. In this
country I was almost poisoned with garlic, which they mix in their
ragouts, and all their sauces; nay, the smell of it perfumes the very
chambers, as well as every person you approach. I was also very sick of
been ficas, grives, or thrushes, and other little birds, which are
served up twice a day at all ordinaries on the road. They make their
appearance in vine-leaves, and are always half raw, in which condition
the French choose to eat them, rather than run the risque of losing the
juice by over-roasting.
The peasants on the South of France are poorly clad, and look as if
they were half-starved, diminutive, swarthy, and meagre; and yet the
common people who travel, live luxuriously on the road. Every carrier
and mule-driver has two meals a day, consisting each of a couple of
courses and a dessert, with tolerable small wine. That which is called
hermitage, and grows in this province of Dauphine, is sold on the spot
for three livres a bottle. The common draught, which you have at meals
in this country, is remarkably strong, though in flavour much inferior
to that of Burgundy. The accommodation is tolerable, though they demand
(even in this cheap country) the exorbitant price of four livres a head
for every meal, of those who choose to eat in their own apartments. I
insisted, however, upon paying them with three, which they received,
though not without murmuring and seeming discontented. In this journey,
we found plenty of good mutton, pork, poultry, and game, including the
red partridge, which is near twice as big as the partridge of England.
Their hares are likewise surprisingly large and juicy. We saw great
flocks of black turkeys feeding in the fields, but no black cattle; and
milk was so scarce, that sometimes we were obliged to drink our tea
without it.
One day perceiving a meadow on the side of the road, full of a flower
which I took to
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