ame hither, with their conductor, in the diligence, and assured me,
that nothing could be more disagreeable than their situation in that
carriage.
Another way of travelling in this country is to hire a coach and four
horses; and this method I was inclined to take: but when I went to the
bureau, where alone these voitures are to be had, I was given to
understand, that it would cost me six-and-twenty guineas, and travel so
slow that I should be ten days upon the road. These carriages are let
by the same persons who farm the diligence; and for this they have an
exclusive privilege, which makes them very saucy and insolent. When I
mentioned my servant, they gave me to understand, that I must pay two
loui'dores more for his seat upon the coach box. As I could not relish
these terms, nor brook the thoughts of being so long upon the road, I
had recourse to the third method, which is going post.
In England you know I should have had nothing to do, but to hire a
couple of post-chaises from stage to stage, with two horses in each;
but here the case is quite otherwise. The post is farmed from the king,
who lays travellers under contribution for his own benefit, and has
published a set of oppressive ordonnances, which no stranger nor native
dares transgress. The postmaster finds nothing but horses and guides:
the carriage you yourself must provide. If there are four persons
within the carriage, you are obliged to have six horses, and two
postillions; and if your servant sits on the outside, either before or
behind, you must pay for a seventh. You pay double for the first stage
from Paris, and twice double for passing through Fontainbleau when the
court is there, as well as at coming to Lyons, and at leaving this
city. These are called royal posts, and are undoubtedly a scandalous
imposition.
There are two post roads from Paris to Lyons, one of sixty-five posts,
by the way of Moulins; the other of fifty-nine, by the way of Dijon in
Burgundy. This last I chose, partly to save sixty livres, and partly to
see the wine harvest of Burgundy, which, I was told, was a season of
mirth and jollity among all ranks of people. I hired a very good coach
for ten loui'dores to Lyons, and set out from Paris on the thirteenth
instant, with six horses, two postillions, and my own servant on
horseback. We made no stop at Fontainbleau, though the court was there;
but lay at Moret, which is one stage further, a very paltry little town
where, howeve
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