onversation with us, and on our telling him that we were going to Glen
Coe, he advised us, instead of proceeding directly to Tyndrum, the next
stage, to go round by the outlet of Loch Awe to Loch Etive, and thence to
Glen Coe. We were glad to change our plan, for we wanted much to see
more of Loch Awe, and he told us that the whole of the way by Loch Etive
was pleasant, and the road to Tyndrum as dreary as possible; indeed, we
could see it at that time several miles before us upon the side of a
bleak mountain; and he said that there was nothing but moors and
mountains all the way. We reached the inn a little before sunset,
ordered supper, and I walked out. Crossed a bridge to look more nearly
at the parsonage-house and the chapel, which stands upon a bank close to
the river, a pretty stream overhung in some parts by trees. The vale is
very pleasing; but, like all the other Scotch vales we had yet seen, it
told of its kinship with the mountains and of poverty or some neglect on
the part of man.

* * * * *

_Thursday_, _September_ 1_st_.--We had been attended at supper by a civil
boy, whom we engaged to rouse us at six o'clock, and to provide us each a
basin of milk and bread, and have the car ready; all which he did
punctually, and we were off in good time. The morning was not
unpleasant, though rather cold, and we had some fear of rain. Crossed
the bridge, and passed by the manse and chapel, our road carrying us back
again in the direction we had come; but on the opposite side of the
river. Passed close to many of the houses we had seen on the hill-side,
which the lame gentleman had told us belonged to Lord Breadalbane, and
were attached to little farms, or 'crofts,' as he called them. Lord
Breadalbane had lately laid out a part of his estates in this way as an
experiment, in the hope of preventing discontent and emigration. We were
sorry we had not an opportunity of seeing into these cottages, and of
learning how far the people were happy or otherwise. The dwellings
certainly did not look so comfortable when we were near to them as from a
distance; but this might be chiefly owing to what the inhabitants did not
feel as an evil--the dirt about the doors. We saw, however--a sight
always painful to me--two or three women, each creeping after her single
cow, while it was feeding on the slips of grass between the corn-grounds.
Went round the head of the lake, and onwards close to t