errily through the fields, no doubt
betaking themselves to their shelter for the night.

We were completely wet when we reached the inn; the landlady wanted to
make a fire for me up-stairs, but I went into her own parlour to undress,
and her daughter, a pretty little girl, who could speak a few words of
English, waited on me; I rewarded her with one of the penny books bought
at Dumfries for Johnny, with which she was greatly delighted. We had an
excellent supper--fresh salmon, a fowl, gooseberries and cream, and
potatoes; good beds; and the next morning boiled milk and bread, and were
only charged seven shillings and sixpence for the whole--horse, liquor,
supper, and the two breakfasts. We thought they had made a mistake, and
told them so--for it was only just half as much as we had paid the day
before at Dalmally, the case being that Dalmally is in the main road of
the tourists. The landlady insisted on my bringing away a little cup
instead of our tin can, which she told me had been taken from the car by
some children: we set no little value on this cup as a memorial of the
good woman's honesty and kindness, and hoped to have brought it home.
. . .

* * * * *

_Friday_, _September_ 2_d_.--Departed at about seven o'clock this
morning, having to travel eight miles down Loch Etive, and then to cross
a ferry. Our road was at first at a considerable distance from the lake,
and out of sight of it, among undulating hills covered with coppice
woods, resembling the country between Coniston and Windermere, but it
afterwards carried us close to the water's edge; and in this part of our
ride we were disappointed. We knew that the high mountains were all at
the head of the lake, therefore had not expected the same awful grandeur
which we beheld the day before, and perceived by glimpses; but the
gentleman whom we met with at Dalmally had told us that there were many
fine situations for gentlemen's seats on this part of the lake, which had
made us expect greater loveliness near the shores, and better
cultivation. It is true there are pleasant bays, with grounds prettily
sloping to the water, and coppice woods, where houses would stand in
shelter and sun, looking on the lake; but much is yet wanting--waste
lands to be ploughed, peat-mosses drained, hedgerows reared; and the
woods demand a grant of longer life than is now their privilege.

But after we had journeyed about six miles a beautiful s