cene opened upon
us. The morning had been gloomy, and at this time the sun shone out,
scattering the clouds. We looked right down the lake, that was covered
with streams of dazzling sunshine, which revealed the indentings of the
dark shores. On a bold promontory, on the same side of the loch where we
were, stood an old castle, an irregular tall building, not without
majesty; and beyond, with leagues of water between, our eyes settled upon
the island of Mull, a high mountain, green in the sunshine, and overcast
with clouds,--an object as inviting to the fancy as the evening sky in
the west, and though of a terrestrial green, almost as visionary. We saw
that it was an island of the seas but were unacquainted with its name; it
was of a gem-like colour, and as soft as the sky. The shores of Loch
Etive, in their moorish, rocky wildness, their earthly bareness, as they
lay in length before us, produced a contrast which, with the pure sea,
the brilliant sunshine, the long distance, contributed to the aerial and
romantic power with which the mountain island was invested.

Soon after, we came to the ferry. The boat being on the other shore, we
had to wait a considerable time, though the water was not wide, and our
call was heard immediately. The boatmen moved with surly tardiness, as
if glad to make us know that they were our masters. At this point the
lake was narrowed to the breadth of not a very wide river by a round ear
or promontory on the side on which we were, and a low ridge of peat-mossy
ground on the other. It was a dreary place, shut out from the beautiful
prospect of the Isle of Mull, and Dunstaffnage Castle--so the fortress
was called. Four or five men came over with the boat; the horse was
unyoked, and being harshly driven over rough stones, which were as
slippery as ice, with slimy seaweed, he was in terror before he reached
the boat, and they completed the work by beating and pushing him by main
force over the ridge of the boat, for there was no open end, or plank, or
any other convenience for shipping either horse or carriage. I was very
uneasy when we were launched on the water. A blackguard-looking fellow,
blind of one eye, which I could not but think had been put out in some
strife or other, held him by force like a horse-breaker, while the poor
creature fretted, and stamped with his feet against the bare boards,
frightening himself more and more with every stroke; and when we were in
the middle of