he Trossachs. We decided upon the latter plan, and
accordingly after breakfast set forward towards Crieff, where we intended
to sleep, and the next night at Callander. The first part of our road,
after having crossed the ferry, was up the glen of the Bran. Looking
backwards, we saw Dunkeld very pretty under the hills, and surrounded by
rich cultivated ground, but we had not a good distant view of the abbey.
Left our car, and went about a hundred yards from the road to see the
Rumbling Brig, which, though well worth our going out of the way even
much further, disappointed us, as places in general do which we hear much
spoken of as savage, tremendous, etc.,--and no wonder, for they are
usually described by people to whom rocks are novelties. The gardener
had told us that we should pass through the most populous glen in
Scotland, the glen of Amulree. It is not populous in the usual way, with
scattered dwellings; but many clusters of houses, hamlets such as we had
passed near the Tummel, which had a singular appearance, being like small
encampments, were generally without trees, and in high situations--every
house the same as its neighbour, whether for men or cattle. There was
nothing else remarkable in the glen. We halted at a lonely inn at the
foot of a steep barren moor, which we had to cross; then, after
descending considerably, came to the narrow glen, which we had approached
with no little curiosity, not having been able to procure any distinct
description of it.
At Dunkeld, when we were hesitating what road to take, we wished to know
whether that glen would be worth visiting, and accordingly put several
questions to the waiter, and, among other epithets used in the course of
interrogation, we stumbled upon the word 'grand,' to which he replied,
'No, I do not think there are any gentlemen's seats in it.' However, we
drew enough from this describer and the gardener to determine us finally
to go to Callander, the Narrow Glen being in the way.
Entered the glen at a small hamlet at some distance from the head, and
turning aside a few steps, ascended a hillock which commanded a view to
the top of it--a very sweet scene, a green valley, not very narrow, with
a few scattered trees and huts, almost invisible in a misty gleam of
afternoon light. At this hamlet we crossed a bridge, and the road led us
down the glen, which had become exceedingly narrow, and so continued to
the end: the hills on both sides heathy and
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